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Author Topic:   4340 Eagle cranks cut 10/10 on eBay ??
BrianW
Member
posted October 27, 2004 02:54 PM
Has anyone run the 4340 Eagle cranks that have been turned .10/.10 - supposedly by eagle after they didn't meet the QC? Was wondering if it would be better to purchase one of those for a little more money vs just running one of the cast cranks from them or even the ecranks.com 5140 crank


goinrcn44h
Member
posted October 27, 2004 04:33 PM
I had a crower crank that was a factory regrind deal that .010 under and although I had never ran a crower. It withstood one seized of 1 an 2 rods, then a rod bolt stretch failure, then another rod bolt failure that ripped the end clear off the rod and then the crank deadheaded against the broken end of the rod.. I am considering had the indent welded up and then just have it turned to small journal size on the rods and leaved the mains at .030 under.. . obviously it was and still could be a tuff crank. I wouldnt hesitate doing it if it's direct from eagle or whoever. The 2nd party stuff might get a lil shaky but direct should be fine..
44H


DEEDDUDE
Member
posted October 27, 2004 05:08 PM
I bought one of those 4340 cranks from eagle turned .010 under on the mains only. Good crank, but it is not 4340. It tested to be 4130. Yours might be different but I wouldn't count on it.

I've turn the motor 7600 on a tacky track, making close to 500 hp and 12.7:1 comp. 3500 lbs. car. No problems.

I'd buy it over the 5140 anyday. There is a post on here claiming "It has the same basic elements of 4340 and is made with the same process but is more affordable". Only problem it is missing two of the elements to be "basicly" the same, nickel and moly.



BrianW
Member
posted October 28, 2004 07:51 AM
quote:
Originally posted by DEEDDUDE:
I bought one of those 4340 cranks from eagle turned .010 under on the mains only. Good crank, but it is not 4340. It tested to be 4130. Yours might be different but I wouldn't count on it.

Who did you buy it from so I can avoid the same seller? If you don't want to post it here for all to avoid then PM me.

Dumb question, but how do they test the crank for 4340 vs 4140???

Rollin Thunder
Member
posted October 28, 2004 11:07 AM
Brian,

I bought the crank from CNC. But, as Rollin stated it isn't CNC, itís that is Eagle at fault. I called Eagle and they told me that they would exchange the crank, but it would be the same material as the one I had. I paid less than $400 for the crank and shipped free.

I tested the crank myself, that's what I do to support my racing habit. I tested it and didn't see the nickel that was is suppose to be in 4340, so I sent some shavings to a lab we use and he confirmed that it wasn't 4340, but 4130. I also tested a scat crank, same results. This is very typical of over seas manufactures, for some reason the governing agencies don't require them to meet the API or NACE codes. This also happens in the petro-chemical industry as well. Some plants will not use forgings from china, korea, and/or italy.


strstckracer
Member
posted November 18, 2004 08:33 PM
I believe Eagle sells a 4130 and 4340 crank. Wouldn't surprise me if they got mislabeled when being reground.

For the price, it's a pretty good deal. Eagle and Scat can't match a Callies, Lunati or Crower piece but is still better than a reground GM cast piece with 100K miles on it already.

Istock66
unregistered
posted November 19, 2004 05:19 PM           
can you link me to one of cncs cranks listed on e bay??

I dont want to search forever thru all the cranks that come up.

thanks