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Author Topic:   If you had $2000 to build a complete 6 inch rod 355, how would you do it?
Xtreme12x
Member
posted October 04, 2004 11:26 AM
Rules
Stock cast heads and intake no porting or polishing
stock appearing bottom end
flat tappet cam only
flat top 9-1 compression limit
360 ci limit
basically a hobby stock motor

lets see what everyones different opinions are on this one

klw45black
Member
posted October 04, 2004 12:17 PM
With those resrictions I'd put most of the money on the bottem end, lite weight forged pistons, lite weight wrist pins, top shelf ring package, cast "steel" crank (scat 9000 series), quality bearings. spend some money on block machine work to true the thing up. And not knowing what head casting numbers you're allowed I'd still invest in some high flow severe duty valves along with whatever you can get away with on things like titanum retainers, and a good cam/spring package. this is a start anybody else??


juliaferrell
Member
posted October 04, 2004 12:31 PM
a good valve job with absolutely 0 seat runout.


Ego Racing
Member
posted October 04, 2004 01:24 PM
Three angle valve job with a 30 degree seat angle would be a must.


istock59
Member
posted October 04, 2004 01:38 PM
Lightened OEM 350 crank.

Scat 6" 4340 I-beam rods.

Protru forged flattops.

Bore block to .060

Camcraft custom ground solid cam.

What's the rules on the heads?

zeroracing
Member
posted October 04, 2004 02:14 PM
tracy who in the mtown area would you have lighten up a 350 crank


istock59
Member
posted October 04, 2004 07:02 PM
12x, see PM.


speedy46
Member
posted October 04, 2004 08:06 PM
no light weight xtreme lol just get a 9000 scat crank good hyper pistons scat 6inch rods fully balanced and leave 1.94 1.5 valves in don't go to 2.02 they hurt the airflow if u don't do port work and a valve job and your intake should put u at 2100


Xtreme12x
Member
posted October 04, 2004 08:41 PM
think i was half fast this year wait till next year when i get a real racing motor and a better car


Xtreme12x
Member
posted October 04, 2004 08:47 PM
and i've already got the motor just seeing who would put what in there motor...
i hope you don't have a scat crank in your motor... i dont want to run it over next year


klw45black
Member
posted October 05, 2004 04:01 PM
If you opt for bigger valves on OEM head & you're on a budget do the exh. valves leave the 1.94 alone. Just make sure the cam grinder is aware of that. I agree with zeroracing on the overbore. Borin' a block .060 right away is like lighting a match, after that it's used up. STD is best (stronger & better cooling) if the bores are useable & are within limits, plus 2 .020 overbores the engine should see a couple extra seasons with low cost rebuilds, excluding the Kaboom factor!
I've built some very good STD bore 350s with plasma molys rings. Valve sealing is a must with any engine. First season w/scat crank & already I'm worried???? Have used mainly steel OEMs in these things.


iowatoolman
Member
posted October 05, 2004 04:49 PM
if the budget allows add total seal rings (file to fit) helps a bit but i am not sure putting them in a claimer motor would be worth it but then again if you have the money to build big then you have the money to build again or so i am told LOL

drive hard or drive home

racer17j
Member
posted October 05, 2004 11:26 PM
there is no claim in his class yet lol,head wise they are resticted to stock production open chambers and no vortecs.most are running 487xor 441's with 2.02/1.6


smayo964
Member
posted October 06, 2004 05:38 AM
I wouldn't consider using the total seal rings from what I read. If you're going to be freshening up the engine by the end of the season, use plain ole steel rings. They wear quicker, but they will also seat faster. We're currently running stock rings in our 355 turning it 7k weekly, making gobs of horsepower, and cylinder pressures are still good. We put that whole engine together (including hyper skirt coated domes) for about $1000 and have been running it in a modified.


Mikey14
Member
posted October 06, 2004 02:14 PM
Swanke stage 1 with a 3.562 crank. Mill some off the piston top to reach 9 to 1.


Vortech heads with the bowls blended and 1.6 exhaust installed. (leave the 1.94 intakes in). Vortechs wont gain much flow if any by going to 2.02's without porting help. Opening up the exhaust will help flow and torque.

Clevite cam. can't remember the # but the lift is 508. nice match for the Vortechs

The Vortechs will take you over 2k but I'd spend the extra couple hundred for it. Other wise some 441's and a cam to match.

Xtreme12x
Member
posted October 06, 2004 05:27 PM
no stroking allowed, no bowtie, marine, or vortec heads allowed


iowatoolman
Member
posted October 06, 2004 06:37 PM
i use the total seal rings didn't take long for them to seat and i have constant pressures in all cylinders no change all season 165* per cylinder we are limited to 175 and they helped pick up a little vacuum as we have to pull 15" @1000RPM

DRIVE HARD OR DRIVE HOME

quote:
Originally posted by smayo964:
I wouldn't consider using the total seal rings from what I read. If you're going to be freshening up the engine by the end of the season, use plain ole steel rings. They wear quicker, but they will also seat faster. We're currently running stock rings in our 355 turning it 7k weekly, making gobs of horsepower, and cylinder pressures are still good. We put that whole engine together (including hyper skirt coated domes) for about $1000 and have been running it in a modified.



Flatlander
Member
posted October 07, 2004 12:04 AM
I've got a Howard cam I wouldn't trust to hold the boat!