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Author Topic:   cylinder honing
fast40
Member
posted August 07, 2004 08:19 AM
45' on all types of rings.

Moly rings need a really round hole to seal well. If the engine isn't torque plate honed, I recomend going to cheapy cast rings. They will deform and seal the chamber better. Just won't last as long.

fast40
Member
posted August 10, 2004 07:22 AM
Sal, looks like you decided to take the motor apart. Hows it coming?


fast40
Member
posted August 16, 2004 11:08 PM
well....it's all a matter of opinion on what grit to use, but you are Pi$$ing in the wind with any grit if the cylinders are not round. here is what I use......

Chrome I use a 220 grit
Cast I use a 280

5/64 moly I use a 280 to finish and then run the plateau brush hone through it a couple of strokes

1/16 @ 1.5mm moly of any kind, I finish with a 400 and then run the plateau brush hone through it a couple of strokes

Keep in mind I am using torque plates bolted to both sides, the mains are torqued up and the freeze plugs are in, and I get the cylinders stright and round within .0002(two tenths of one thounsandth)......my point is that unless you are prepared to spend thousands in cash to buy all this equipment....take the block to a good machine shop around you....it will be worth it in the long run! He (or she) can also work with you on what rings you should run. if you do this you can expect to get a little more power and life out of your engine. DO IT RIGHT!

but if you insist on doing this yourself at home, get yourself a 280 grit "dingle berry" hone (AKA flexhone) and use it, do like the guy stated above and use cheap cast rings and you will get pretty good results.

as far as crank polishing goes...if the crank is wihtin specs you can use a 400 grit wet and dry paper....cut it into strips as wide as the crank journal, wrap it all the way around the journal, then take an old shoe string and wrap it all the way around the journal on top of the paper and use it to turn the paper. when you pull the string back and forth, pull outward towards the ends of the crank so the srting travels from one side of the journal to the other, rotate the crank a 1/4 turn every now and then so the journal gets about the same pressure all the way around. if you really want to get a nice finish, go to wal-mart and in the automotive section around the paint and bondo....they sell some little packs of 800 grit wet and dry paper...use it after the 400 and you will be impressed with the finish.you can get 1000,1500,and 2000 grit paper at wal-mart too,and I have done this,it makes the crank look like polished chrome, BUT if you do this, the oil will bead up and roll off the crank surface when the engine is not running,and this will lead to bearing wear beacuse of "dry starts".
one more thing....use WD-40 on the paper when polishing. and make sure you clean the crank REAL GOOD after you do all this.

Hope this helps some.

[This message has been edited by engineman (edited August 21, 2004).]

fast40
Member
posted August 21, 2004 09:56 PM
if thats really the case.....yes they will seat, they probly havent had time to seat anyway if the engine was that new.

if you broke a rod bolt,I would be willing to bet some of the cylinders have some nicks in them....specially at the bottom. correct these problems with whatever (emory cloth die grinder or whatever) and run the 280 grit flexhone through it a couple times and you should be good to go. use some sort of solvent while honing, and clean the block WELL when done! use a presure washer or go to the carwash to clean the block.
I use Castrol "super clean" to wash my blocks with. a toliet brush works good for scrubing the cylinders (a new one,not the one from yur $hit-house!)and I would at least remove the rear oil galley plugs and spray through them to get the grit out!

If you dont clean the block and cylinders after you hone....you might as well not even hone it at all...as the grit will destroy the rings and bearings when you fire it!
Have plenty of WD-40 or whatever to oil the cylinders,mains,deck,and lifter bores when done! you really need to blow it dry, but thats hard to do at the carwash.

If you didnt understand the first time....CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN..SCRUB SCRUB SCRUB...WASH WASH WASH..DRY DRY DRY...OIL OIL OIL! get it so clean it wants to rust...but dont let it rust!
I think I have made my point

do all this and the rings will seat fine.

have fun!!!!

------------------
Mark's Racing Engines

(903)883-0196

www.northtexasracing.com

engineman@northtexasracing.com

[This message has been edited by engineman (edited August 22, 2004).]

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