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Author Topic:   Oil pressure problems with new motor!!!!!
odb93
Member
posted June 09, 2004 02:27 PM
Had it happen on my brand new 383. Dump the Fram, get a Wix. Block off the bypass on the oil filter adapter, and use a quality 20w50 oil. And yes, gas in the oil will break it down quick. If all that does'nt help, you may have to pull the pan and check the pick-up for silicone blockage. Also, make sure you have correct freeplay between the distributor and oil pump. Too tight and it will wear out the oil pump in a hurry.


dirtbuster
Member
posted June 09, 2004 02:46 PM
Did you change the oil filter or just remove and check it the reinstall it. Have hard of Fram fitlers acting like this before.

Also is this a breakin on a fresh motor? If so you really should do the breakin on the cam and lifters first thing after firing it and set final timing and carb after that. Fire it and get the ilde up to 2000 or so and get the timing close then after 20-30 minutes you can reset it and adjust the carb.

eenfield
Member
posted June 09, 2004 06:42 PM
Ive seen a couple Frams do this before... somekind of an internal failure. I second tilley, get a wix. 20w50 isnt always the right oil though.


tech355
Member
posted June 09, 2004 07:22 PM
Go with tilley88. He's got it in about the same order as I would. Dump fram, get wix, block off bypass, distributor shaft binding pump, pull pan check pickup for silicone and tightness *make sure it didn't come loose if its not welded* And check that darn softplug at the rear main.


racing33A
Member
posted June 10, 2004 05:45 AM
Ditch the fram filter.Had the same problemand it turned out to be the fram oil filter.Put a wix on and no more problem.


odb93
Member
posted June 10, 2004 06:00 AM
Glad it worked out.

One thing I'll add, I'd dump the straight 30w for 10w30 or 10w40. If oil pressure is adequate, run the thinnest oil you can. So if you're getting 60psi with straight 30, 10w30 should build the same pressure and will be easier on the motor when warming up.

I use 10w40 or 20w50 to get pressure around 60 at race speeds.


odb93
Member
posted June 11, 2004 09:02 AM
6-7000 miles? If this is a race motor it would be worn out long before that. I would break it in on conventional, run the first couple nights on convetnional then change to synthetic.


mod70
unregistered
posted June 11, 2004 09:51 AM           
I change my Valvoline racing 50W every 3 to 4 race nights, and have been told that this is common. If you go 6,000 miles on a race motor without changing it, you've lost all viscosity in the oil. It's OK in a street car, but not in a high reving, high load race car.


odb93
Member
posted June 15, 2004 02:09 PM
When Syn oils first came out they were so slick and the particulate in the oil was so large that they would not allow the bearings to break in correctly. The Syn's out now are far better than those used just a few years ago but the same thinking is still around. After Break in we switch to Red Line or Royal Purple and have never had an oil related falure in over 12 Years of using syn's. I would recomend them to anyone. I would just go by what the oil mfg recomends. If your engine builder is warrantying your engine on regular oils I would run them but if not I would look at the syns. Our cars lost about 20 degrees in water temp by using them. Also natural oil needs to get to around 200-250 degrees to work correctly where most syns can operate at a lower temp so you car dosen't take 5 min of driveing around to get up to temprature.


Camaro_Dude_1991
Member
posted June 16, 2004 07:31 AM
Okay on the fram filter make sure you run the high performance racing filter, it is the hp4, if you run the regular stock replacement fram filter yes it will drop your pressure. to much restriction in the smaller fram for a race engine. Found this out from experience. I was also told by a pro the the wix filter will drop your press a little bit, but it's not near the difference as the non high performance fram, and the high performance one.


rrrrick
Member
posted June 17, 2004 11:29 AM
An engine builder told me to run a HP4 or a K&N oil filter, We have had filter collapse problems with different brands of stock type filters. I have seen the light and have decided that saving $6.00 in the oil filter department is not the best idea. Now I will spend the $9.99 for a K&N and just not buy two hamburgers at the track. ( swearing off track food... another good idea)


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