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Author Topic:   Ridge Reaming
smallrock98
Member
posted March 03, 2004 10:19 PM
I got one heck of a ridge built up on the cylinder walls. I was hoping I wouldnt have to bore over the engine this year, but with a ridge like this....wow! So I want to give a shot at removing the ridges myself. I know the machine shop could do it but this is something I need to learn. Anyway, went to Auto-Zone and they loaned me a reamer. I have never used one before and the instructions on this thing does not make any sense at all. I followed them step by step but they must be forgetting something.

It's a Lisle ridge reamer. It has a knob with a 1, 2, and 3 setting on it. It also has two lock nuts on the adjustable plate or something like that. I cant remember if that terminology is correct but I am not going back in that stupid garage to get the directions tonite. Messed around with this thing for 2 hours before I was finally fed up. Searched the internet for help.......no luck. Can any of you guies help me out and give me a step by step if they are familiar with this kind of reamer? Hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about.

Raz_900
Member
posted March 04, 2004 10:09 AM
I'm not familiar with using one, but I'd advise against it. You have a better chance of totally ruining it than just leaving it be. If you cut to far or too deep, the top ring won't seal at TDC anymore. That's world class bad. When I worked in the shop, I once had to bore a block from standard to .060" because it had been ridgereamed to the point the top rings wouldn't have done anything even at .040".

If you don't want to bore it, just hone it and be extra careful installing the rings. Once the rings are in, the ridge won't really hurt anything.

gahainsey
Member
posted March 04, 2004 10:23 AM
I somewhat disagree. If new rings are installed, they will hit on the ridge.


dirtbuster
Member
posted March 04, 2004 10:32 AM
If the ridge is that bad then it prob needs bored anyway. You about have to get the ridge out or you would have trouble at piston installation. I would be careful with the reamer just like raz said. You can go too far and not even know it.


rfb320
Member
posted March 04, 2004 01:10 PM
if you are going to have the block bored anyway just leave the ridge. i used to do maching and i prefered it when people wouldn't cut the ridge out if they were having the block bored anyway.


smallrock98
Member
posted March 04, 2004 03:48 PM
Well, looks like I'm going to have it bored so I'll leave the ridge and not mess with it. I still want to get the old pistons out before I take the block to the shop. I know the rings are going to get hung up on the ridge. Will I hurt the block if I just bang the pistons out when the catch the ridge or just the rings? I dont care what happens to the rings since they are being replaced. I just dont want a chunk of cast iron flying off if I do this . Or, how about disconnecting all the rod caps, push the pistons down the bore, lifting the crank, and then sliding the pistons out the back? Will it work?


MEANGENE83
Member
posted March 04, 2004 04:36 PM
just bang em through the top, you might bust the ring lands on the pistons but you won't hurt the block and they won't go out the bottom. I put one together one time that had a pretty big ridge in it(I reamed it). I thought it would be good enough for a back-up, but when I needed to use it the amount of blow by it put out was very impressive, no mosquitos for miles! lol

[This message has been edited by MEANGENE83 (edited March 04, 2004).]

64racing
Member
posted March 04, 2004 04:36 PM
Just hammer them threw.

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DOING IT IN THE DIRT


BrianW
Member
posted March 04, 2004 05:17 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 64racing:
Just hammer them threw.

If you do this don't hammer hard on the rods if you intend to re-use them - use a wood stick to hammer on the piston directly by the pin to avoid damaging the rods (I speak from expierence once - tweaked a rod that way


goinrcn44h
Member
posted March 05, 2004 12:04 PM
holy smokes...

does your guys tool boxes consist of a big rock, a sharp stick and a roll of bailin twine..? Just push the dam things out the bottom, its all comin apart anyway.... geez

44H

Raz_900
Member
posted March 05, 2004 01:32 PM
I don't think they'll fit out the bottom of a 350.

If I'm trying to save the pistons, I have a long brass rod that I tap them out with from the underside of the piston. If it's a core motor, a big screwdriver and just beat them out. I tore down about 600-700 motors at the shop and only broke rings on 3 of them. Some had to be bored .060" to clean, so it'll take one h#ll of a ridge to break anything.

dirtbuster
Member
posted March 05, 2004 01:56 PM
Is is a carboned ridge or is it ridged from wear? If it just carbon ridge then most of it will break out as you drive the piston past. IF it is ridged because of wear then pistons are prob worn as well and prob shouldnt be reused anyway. Just beat them out.
Now that being said you could always use the reamer to take the ridge down a little but not completely off. leave enough to catch a fingernail on or so and then push the pistons out. Would prob be safe that way.


smallrock98
Member
posted March 05, 2004 03:18 PM
The ridge was formed due to wear and not carbon build up. I left the ridge, used a wooden rod and hammer and was able to beat them through. Not as painful as I thought it was going to be. Didn't hurt the block one bit. Thanks for all the advice everyone. Off to the machine shop we go.............


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