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Author Topic:   Loctite on the Main Caps??
Speed Racer X
Member
posted January 19, 2004 09:32 PM
If they are walking enough to gall, the caps need to be tightened up, and the block align honed. If it's really bad, be sure to mag the block and caps. It's very common to see broken main web's in a block like your describing. Using any type of anti-seize or loctite on the mating surface is not a good idea.

Steve

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rocket36
Member
posted January 19, 2004 11:16 PM
have to agree with steve. if they are walking bad enough to gaul up then you probably need to tighten them up, maybe with new bolts or even better, studs. i'm not sure i would try loctite or anti sieze as this would defeat the purpose of the "size for size"/interference fit machined surfaces.
if there is enough room you could maybe try drilling and dowelling (roll pinning) the caps. this was pretty common years ago.


Raz_900
Member
posted January 20, 2004 12:26 PM
ARP bolts or studs and an align hone are the only things that will help you.

Antiseize and loctite will just find there way into the oil (stock 4 bolt blocks have a few holes open to the crankcase). Any time something other than oil gets into the oil it's a very very bad thing.

Speed Racer X
Member
posted January 20, 2004 04:53 PM
Something is not right there,i'd check everythng real close.


Sweek7
Member
posted January 20, 2004 06:31 PM
For the block that you have now, it probably needs to be align honed. If the caps are loose, it throws the size off. Doesn't take much to use up that couple thou of clearance.

For future blocks, I agree with finding out what made it happen the first time.

How high is the motor spun and approx. how much HP is it making? Heavyweight parts or lightweight?


hamer36
Member
posted January 21, 2004 08:47 PM
sounds like detonation to me. too much timing or poor fuel.


racinrobb2003
Member
posted January 21, 2004 09:23 PM
if your caps are not tight in the sadale(the part of the block that is steped and the caps set in)they need to be tightend up.the caps may need to be cut and the line bore honed.Check the main webs for cracks. Any machine shop should be able to do this.If you are concerned with changing the center line of the crank to timming chain distans have the machine shop bore the main housing .010 and use a over sized o.d bearing aval. through king bearing comp.

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racinrobb


Speed Racer X
Member
posted January 22, 2004 12:49 PM
Sounds to me you are asking a tremendous amount from a 2-bolt block... I suppose it will do it , obviously, for a while, but the long haul she is looking a little flimsy, hence the walking. An easy fix is upgrade to a good 4-bolt block, forget the splayed caps, a good, clean, straight 4-bolt 010 block will live all day in that environment.

44H

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