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Author Topic:   16 volt Battery
posted December 24, 2003 08:19 AM
Hey, saw these in a few racing mags. Anyone run one? If so, can you use it just like a 12 volt. I don't run an alt, and my 12 volt system seemed to miss after 5700rpm. My dist. is suspose to be good to 8000rpm. Thanks, Race

posted December 24, 2003 09:01 AM
Best things since sliced bread. I run them in 2 stock cars and they work great. We've even run them 2 weeks+ (about 60 laps) without charging and never had a problem. Even up around 7000. All the gauges, lights and ignition are fine with the 16V. The one car has been together for 3 years going on 4 with no issues. The worst part is buying the special charger, but the battery itself is about the same as a premium (Holley, Optima etc) 12V piece.

I'll never use anything else in a racer.

[This message has been edited by Raz_900 (edited December 24, 2003).]

posted December 24, 2003 09:55 AM
Thanks Raz, I guess I didn't think about the charger. What does the charge cost? Thanks! Race

posted December 24, 2003 10:59 AM
I've checked into these too but havent purchased one. I did read an article in cirlce track I think that said you need to put a resistor inline with the starter otherwise you'll fry the silonoid after a few starts. The benifit is an above 14 volt source consistantly delivered to the ingnition. After running hotlaps, heats and half a feature some drivers have found a drop in performance because the battery is nolonger providing enough volts to keep the ignition happy. This is why people will run the 3-wire alternators to keep the volts up. Running the 16 volt gives you the chance to take that extra weight off the nose and remove a piece off the car that might fail during a time of need!

The charger is an add on requirement, I have to say its the only thing keeping me from buying one currently.

BTW they even have 18 volt systems now too.

rico 08
posted December 24, 2003 01:00 PM
Sleepy did an article on the "poor man's" version,using a 6 volt and a 12 volt battery hookedd together in series with a three way switch,that way you can use a cheap battery charger,but if the rules say only one battery you have no choice.

posted December 24, 2003 02:38 PM
I really don't know much about these, but the article I read did say that a lose in power can occur without an ignition miss. I agree with Rob, you probably have issues somewhere other than the battery if your missing late in the run. The bigger batteries are appealing though.

posted December 28, 2003 09:24 AM
at the PRI show we seen a company there who is making a device that converts a 12 volt battery to 16volts. pretty slick. here is how it works:
12v in = 16v out.

scott bloomquist ran one this past year. checkout their website:


PS: made in USA

[This message has been edited by x13jc (edited December 28, 2003).]

posted December 28, 2003 07:08 PM
I run Sleepy's 12v + 6v set up and it works great. Its also a cheap way to make 18 volts. I think I paid $15 for the battery and $10 for the 6 volt charger. I don't use the 3 way switch set up - I run a hot wire off a ford solenoid, through the six volt, then through the ignition switch to the hei. The starter is run from another 12v wire off of the solenoid which also gives the ability to turn the car over without starting it.

posted December 29, 2003 09:27 AM
Originally posted by RACEINMUD:
Thanks Raz, I guess I didn't think about the charger. What does the charge cost? Thanks! Race

The battery is in the $160-$170 range and the charger is around $200. has the info on the stuff, but Summit Racing actually sells the battery a couple $$$ less.

I've run the same gauges (all electronic) and same starter & solenoid for 3 years with no problems. I think the longest race I've ever been in took about 45 minutes (it was a melee) and I even shut it off a few times. Fires right back up everytime.

posted December 29, 2003 10:28 AM
Thanks Raz! Race

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