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Author Topic:   building 383 need help
brdhil
Member
posted December 21, 2003 10:09 PM
would like to run 6 in. rods in 350. if we buy a 383 kit with 6in. rods flat top. what are some of the problems we will have to deal with ? ive heard something about grinding on the block for cleareance. and does anyone know how much is needed to take off for the right clearence? also we have a 327 short block that is cracked. can we use the crank& rods in a 350. any help would be great ..thanks


squid
Member
posted December 21, 2003 11:05 PM
running a 383 you have to grind out around the pan rail were the rod passes. Be careful to take off just wide enough for the rod and not to cut in to deep (you can grind through). Best way is to try to square it up with the pan rail. Look straight down from the rail, best way i've found anyway. and if using H-beam rods or heavier end rods, might have prob hitting cam not to usual but does happen. Best way is to dry fit it and see were everything comes out.

Is the 327 small or large journal, would work if large journal in a 350 but u still have a 327. Bore is the same stroke is different, 327 stroke 3,250. 350 stroke 3.48. Bore is both 4.000. rods are same length.

hope this helps at all have fun...

Sidebite252
Member
posted December 22, 2003 04:20 AM
I strongly suggest checking the clearance between the cam and the rods. We've had to grind the rod for clearance not only on 383's but 400's w/ 5.7 rods. Not difficult to check or grind clearance on the top of the rod bolt/rod. There is a minimum acceptable clearance here but I can't remember what it is.


racer2
Member
posted December 22, 2003 05:40 AM
I'd never use H beam rods again on a 383.
had to grind to much . next time id use good
I beams. its alot of putting it together and taking it apart to grind.And the less you grind the less chance youll strike water.


dirtrace
unregistered
posted December 22, 2003 07:41 AM           
Hitting water jackets isnt a big deal at all.

Any decent boat place sells a 2 part paste that is like cast iron, you can just put it on there like toothpaste, youll need a grinder if you put to much.

Welding shops even have different types of metal repair stuff.

racer2
Member
posted December 23, 2003 06:33 AM
Id rather not have a hole in the first place.
JMO


dirtrace
unregistered
posted December 23, 2003 06:34 PM           
sure me neither but if you can put some ceramic repair stuff on it in about 30 seconds, wait 24 hours then need a grinder to remove any excess you put on does it really matter at all???


except you only save about 95.00 bucks instead of the whole 100.00 you would have paid the machine shop.


If you build anything over a 406 with a stock block you have to go into the water jacket for all the rods.... at least on a 421/434 for sure.


hlappel
Member
posted December 26, 2003 10:10 PM
quote:
Originally posted by brdhil:
would like to run 6 in. rods in 350. if we buy a 383 kit with 6in. rods flat top. what are some of the problems we will have to deal with ? ive heard something about grinding on the block for cleareance. and does anyone know how much is needed to take off for the right clearence? also we have a 327 short block that is cracked. can we use the crank& rods in a 350. any help would be great ..thanks


If you run into problems with cam clearance I suggest a Howards Small Base Circle Cam. No problems then.

------------------
hlappel


stockcar5
Member
posted December 27, 2003 08:32 AM
i build a 6in rod 383 with billet i beam rods and i notched the pan rails as well as notching the head of the capscrew on the rod bolt to gain clearance. it was a tight fit but i didnt have to go into the pan rail. alot will depend on the core shift of your block ect.. i had plenty of room for the cam with capscrew i beam rods. if you use rods with press in bolts you will have less room.


luke


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