Visit The Dirt Forum for More Information

Author Topic:   Ford Motor Help ??
posted December 03, 2003 08:05 AM
I would be glad to help. Ask away, and I'm sure there are lots of other guys who are Ford builders. One great Ford man comes to mind: Brian Gade (aka "Ford5" here). He'll have the answers you're looking for, too.

Hope that helps, and if you need parts, just let me know, I have a killer 351W for sale.

Dayton Umholtz, co-owner
Kinetic Performance

posted December 03, 2003 08:49 AM
I race fords also talk to outlawstock17 he has forgot more then I will probaly ever know

posted December 03, 2003 04:16 PM
you're a little too vague on the rules for me to be of any help. copy and paste your engine rules on here.

posted December 04, 2003 07:56 PM
Engine must be strictly stock for make/ model and in its original mounts. Carburetors must be stock, Choke Plate may be removed . OEM carbs only! Maximum of 1 inch spacer under carb. Cast iron intake and exhaust only. No headers. Engine vacuum will be tested at intake manifold on top 4 cars. Must have a capped port or removable plug in the intake manifold. Can also use brake booster vacuum line. Must have at least 15 inches of vacuum at 1000 rpm (stock engines are 16 to 22.After market pulleys are optional on Alternator Only. (To prevent belt loss).

there you go outlaw thats the engine rules

hey 24 i may be runn'n a ford over there too tring to talk my father in law out of his 79 t bird if not i'm getting my le sabre with the good old poncho 400 ready

posted December 05, 2003 06:48 AM
in a heavy car......1971 spec 429SCJ with d0ve heads or SCJ/CJ heads if you can find them. custom ground solid cam.....should be legal since a 429SCJ came from the factory with one......also had a factory holley 4 bbl. use the CJ exhaust manifolds if you can find them. this combo will be a little spendy to build and it's a heavy engine, but it should have them covered in the HP department and it will twist up there with any small block and stay together.

in a light to medium weight car.......351w, flat tops, custom ground hydraulic roller, 1969-70 351w heads or gt-40/gt-40p head, 1969 351w 4 bbl. intake, autolite 4 bbl., 1969-1970 exhaust manifolds. if you can "fudge" in a holley, then do so.

in a light car.....late model 5.0 engine, 289 rods, flat tops clipped to zero deck, early 289 heads or gt-40/gt-40p, a custom ground hyraulic roller, 1983-1985 5.0 4 bbl. intake and factory holley 4 bbl. use the 1969-1970 351w exhaust manifolds.

there are so many options for a ford it would take all day for me to type them. a 351c with closed chamber 4 bbl. heads or aussie closed chamber 2 bbl. heads is another high winding powerful engine. a 400 ford is a tank, but if built right, it's a torque monster.

if you can get away with it, go with a hydraulic roller in whatever small block you build. it really flattens out the torque curve. good luck.

posted December 07, 2003 07:33 PM
from the sounds of it i'm getting the car gonna make her look like matt kenseth's car . just hope this little 302 will hold together anybody got any suggestions for rpm thats safe to run a bone stock 302 in a big old 79 t bird to last 4-5 200 lap races on a 1/2 mile track?

posted December 08, 2003 08:01 AM
The only 302 I ever ran was fuel injected. Computer controlled. Junk. We couldn't blow it up. Believe me we tried. I have no idea what we turned for rpms. That car wasn't fast but I'm afraid it will run forever.

posted December 08, 2003 09:48 PM
We ran a 89' ltd with a 302 and it ran for 2 years and still doesnt burn any oil. We took all the fuel injection off and put a motorcraft 4 brrl on it. Its a roller motor,and we had it balanced. We added a comp cam, Mallory distributer, and a set of 69 winsor heads. It was always up front. We ran in the 6000 rpm range. I really like that motor, but you have to wind them up to get power out them. We always got ate up on the line. But when we got up to speed it was hard to beat.Good luck

Back to the Archives