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Author Topic:   SCAT 9000 series cranks???
36k
Member
posted November 29, 2003 07:02 PM
broke snouts of off external balanced 383s. using the large oem type balancer.

other than that they were fine in my 355s. 13-1

6500 rpm



Speed Racer X
Member
posted November 30, 2003 12:34 PM
About the only thing i've seen to watch out for is if you use std bearings they seem to be on the tight side,sometimes you need to use .001 bearings to get the clearances right.


cmiller51
Member
posted November 30, 2003 03:19 PM
Wouldn't that make it tighter?


istock59
Member
posted November 30, 2003 04:36 PM
I like them, I've got a Scat 9000 383 crank with 40+ nights on it, with no problems. Gonna have it checked for cracks this winter, but it sure looks as good as new.

11:1 compression. Externally balanced.

Okie11m
Member
posted November 30, 2003 08:32 PM
I believe he is talking about the .001x Brg.


36k
Member
posted December 01, 2003 03:37 PM
go for it, any motor is only as strong
as its weakest part anyway.

[This message has been edited by sixwillwin (edited December 01, 2003).]

stockcar5
Member
posted December 01, 2003 06:24 PM
from what i've heard the stock steel cranks arent the best and you almost better off running a stock cast crank. i know alot of mod guys up here pull the cranks out after seasons end only to find lotsa cracks!

go scat or even a prowler 4130 steel on ebay for 319 or so isnt a bad price.

luke

dirtbuster
Member
posted December 02, 2003 07:19 AM
WE have a scat cast crank with prob 40 nights on it total. 13:1 comp 355 turning 7300. So far it has held up well.


36k
Member
posted December 02, 2003 07:59 PM
FWIW guys, I just got my Scat 9000 series crank back from JR Motorsports. It's cracked and will now make a nice boat anchor...

Not sure I'm so hip on them anymore, but I dont want to spend a ton of money on a crank in a claimer motor... What to do???



madmodshoe
Member
posted December 05, 2003 10:24 PM
i don't know that i would be that displeased with 9000 series crank that got forty nights. I would be very happy if that was without any refreshes.


dirtbuster
Member
posted December 06, 2003 11:24 AM
I have also heard that if you stay within the stock stroke they hold up pretty well but if you go to the stroker cranks they are not as durable so maybe that makes a difference with the 383 as well. If your talking 350 or 377 and budget is an issue i would consider the SCAT but start talkign 383 or 400 i would prob look for a better steel crank, especially for high comp or high rpm.


avenger 11
Member
posted December 06, 2003 12:53 PM
I'd agree Avenger, but its hard to justify a $700 crank in a $400 claimer engine...


dirtbuster
Member
posted December 08, 2003 10:20 AM
What kind of car is this for? IF you want a little more than a cast crank offers but dont want to spend the cash for a 4340 why not look into one of the 4130 or 5140 cranks. They can usually be found for around $400 or so and i think would hold up well in all but extreme cases.


66jj
Member
posted December 08, 2003 01:54 PM
Istock59


eagle makes a sweet 4340 lw 50lb crank for 399.99 from dirt track thunder last I saw, or get a 4130 for around 300.00.

did you detonate your motor at all to get hairline fractures? were there any little dots or deposits on your pistons?

seems like with the limited carb you sure shouldnt have a problem with scat cast.
I personally would get a bhj balancer though they are 130.00 and 6.75 diameter for external balance.

Ive either busted the snout clean off or they last forever, though I wouldnt even have a 40 race motor apart for as few a laps as are run around here.

Only motor I took apart to freshen had 34 pavement nights which are minimum 70 lap total night to more common 140 laps. On pavement you practice 20-50 laps, and qualify,3 laps, heat race 10-12, and main event of either 50 or 100.
It was a scat cast crank 355-13-1, looked like new, I replaced the crank anyways and sold it. Right before I moved. I gave the guy the old crank, guess it could have been cracked no idea though, I think the cranks speedway sells are scat also, I got one and it looked identical. 383 is only 159.95, I also have a email address for a place with cranks for 129.99.



istock59
Member
posted December 08, 2003 04:27 PM
Overheated it a couple times last summer 66jj, leakdown test started showing some blow-by, so it was time for rings this winter. But I guess it's going to take a little more than that this winter....

No signs of detenation. Pistons (KB) look really good, probably reuse them.


SSRACER4
Member
posted December 08, 2003 06:36 PM
see www.ecranks.com


15a
Member
posted December 27, 2003 12:06 AM
keep an eye on ebay...i just bought a new callies racemaster 400 crank for 535$.

i bought a lunati 383 crank last year for 500 also.

luke

15a
Member
posted January 07, 2004 10:51 PM
15A

I have been thinking about trying a crank similar to that as well, and would be interested in what you find out after having it checked over.

thanks

GO 24
Member
posted January 13, 2004 01:00 PM
For the money I can't see why you wouldn't go with American made, the Callies "dragon slayer" in my opinion is the way to go for higher reving/higher comp engines, if it's a claimer I'd get it staight from GM.


dirtrace
unregistered
posted January 13, 2004 04:18 PM           
go 24,

whats a callies dragon slayer weigh??

I think cola,and callies are both american made, and their lw's weigh more than anyone elses standard?

what would you get from gm, a 1053 steel?



GO 24
Member
posted January 14, 2004 12:13 PM
I'm pretty sure the Callies weighs 50lbs. Crower, Callies, Cola are all american made! I actually have a Crower in my "spec" engine and (if my limited engine sells here on the classifieds!) when we start putting together a new one it'll be the Callies. I run a late model so weight is a concern but I'll gladly give up a couple 2-3lbs of crank weight for the reliability.


GO 24
Member
posted January 14, 2004 12:32 PM
Oh yeah, the 1053 is correct. I believe GM is even sticking that crank in their sealed race engines.


dirtbuster
Member
posted January 14, 2004 01:48 PM
From what ive read here and there i would rather put a SCAT9000 crank in before a GM 1053. I beleive there were some GM steel cranks made back in the 60's that were 5140 and they are the stronger ones.

I agree that a 4340 crank (be it Callies, Crower, SCAT or whoever) is by far the strongest, BUT, if you are on a tighter budget why spend the extra $300-400 over a 5140 if the 5140 is more than enough for your combo.

edit:
Maybe we can get steve hendren on here to give everyone a guide as far as what the different cranks are able to withstand, both in HP and rpm.

[This message has been edited by dirtbuster (edited January 14, 2004).]

GO 24
Member
posted January 14, 2004 06:49 PM
I'd be curious also what would be recommened especially for "claimer" stuff. I've used PRC cranks before with no problems and they'll run ya $350 or so.


stevenwm
Member
posted January 14, 2004 07:41 PM
Any after market large radi crank needs the H-Race bearings and the clearances should be checked horizontally at the parting line and vertically with the bearings installed and main caps torqued to specs.I would run a minimum of 0.0025 and maximum of 0.0028 anything less or more will cause trouble.

The crank end-play should be a minimum of 0.005 and a maximum of 0.010.

Take care.
Steven.


JDTURNLEFT
Member
posted January 15, 2004 03:23 PM
I have a 9000 story to add: I used one in a between weekly race, engine scramble and did not have time to balance. 406 Chev in a modified. It held up fine but after 8 races it spit a balancer. My fault so I take it to the machine shop to balance and after getting a **** chewing from him for buying a cheap one we found too much was ground off front counter weight and we had to do, what I thought was creative balancing, was to machine the oposite side to makeup for it. That smoothed it out but only lasted 4 race and I spun a stock type balance. Pulled the crank again and balanced a $149 SFI balancer to it. This one had the bolt-in style weight, so we added an extra piece to balance it out. that one lasted 5 races and then it spun the outer off. Luckily it was during wheel packing and we noticed because it threw the p/s pump belt.
We pulled the outer ring and finished that night out and ran the next night. It held together but sure had us nervous. That crank is laying in my garage now. It is still all standard 400 but I don't even want to sell it a swap meet. I guess I am too honest.
....So mine was strong enough but I won't buy another !!!


dirtracer50
Member
posted January 15, 2004 06:33 PM
Funny this balancing thing was mentioned. Just picked up my crank today 400 internal balance with 6inch rods. The guy at the machine shop told me he couldn't balance it because it was reading heavy in a spot were there was no counter weight to remove weight. Also noticed that not all the counterweights were the same length. Any suggestions I hate to throw away 250 bucks wihtout ever running the crank.


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