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Author Topic:   adjusting float on 4412
dode
Member
posted September 04, 2003 11:36 PM
When adjusting the float on a 4412, do you have to adjust it in 1/2 turn increments? I have never heard of that before. Our engine guy said that you have to do that or the needle will block fuel flow into the carb. I have never adjusted it this way before and it ran find for half the season without it being that way. I just set it whereever the fuel came just to the bottom of the sight glass and called it good. Can one of you carb guys clear this up for me? Thanks.

John

norightturn
Member
posted September 05, 2003 07:28 AM
No you can adjust them in any increment you want. The needle is round and the whole assembly turns when you adjust it so i dont see what he is talking about.


dode
Member
posted September 05, 2003 09:09 AM
What he is talking about is the center of the body of the needle where there are two pieces about 3/32" wide that connect the top and bottom together. He said that the slot in the needle assembly must lined up with the fuel inlet.

John

dirtbuster
Member
posted September 05, 2003 09:41 AM
oh i see i understand now. But i still dont think it matters. i have never seen or heard of anyone only adjusting in half turns. I dont think the needle fits that tight in the bore that fuel cant get around it if the door isnt lined up right.


Earl Parker II
Member
posted September 05, 2003 09:47 AM
Dirtbuster is correct, it doesn't matter as there is sufficent room for fuel flow regardless of the orientation of the needle & seat. As for fuel level, I stop a fuzz short of where norightturn does- right at the bottom of the sight plug hole with no fuel at all coming out.

------------------
Earl Parker II
www.parkercarburetion.com
704.482.7588


KPLugnut
Member
posted September 05, 2003 09:54 AM
I, too, agree with Earl in that it does not matter how the body of the needle/seat assembly is oriented in the cavity in there. There's room for flow to remain the same no matter which way the openings in the body are.
And yes, just a hair below the hole is fine. I set 'em on the bench with a jig for dry float setting, but on the car we tell racers to set them so that if you nudge the car just a bit, you'll see a small trickle of fuel. Sitting still it doesn't come out the hole by itself.
And we no longer recommend use of the clear site plugs either, as I've had a ministock break one off from vibration and an open wheel modified lose 2 or 3 from debris (clay) from the track.

Hope that helps,
KP


PEDDLER
Member
posted September 09, 2003 08:39 PM
So I guess I'll change my sight plugs,,,LOL.
Haven't had a chance to us the carb yet though.

Thanks KP.
Jim


KPLugnut
Member
posted September 10, 2003 07:58 AM
Sorry about that, Jim. I have been trying to contact anyone I could remember who might've gotten those sight plugs with their carb. I must've forgotten ya.
Let me know if you need parts, ok?

Thanks,
Dayton.


nut3d
Member
posted September 10, 2003 02:55 PM
KP how can I go about gettin a base plate for a 4150 double pumper 750 from. I'm leaking gas out of my throtel shaft bushings.


KPLugnut
Member
posted September 10, 2003 03:11 PM
I can re-bush the baseplate for less than the cost of a new baseplate, and turn it around for you in a day (plus shipping time).
Or, given some specific info about your carb and application, we'd be happy to set ya up with a brand new baseplate.

Unless there's some serious problems with your existing baseplate, there's no reason we couldn't do a restoration on it for ya.

Just let me know how we can help ya.
PM me, email, or reply here.

KP

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