posted August 21, 2003 06:56 PM
Easiest way is to use the plastic checker......easier to guage that way. only a few bucks....makes life easier....I think Day sells them.
posted August 21, 2003 09:36 PM
HAVE YOU BEEN RUNNING STOCK ROCKERS AND SOME ONE JUST PUT THE STUDS IN IF SO THEY DID NOT CUT ENOUGH OFF OF THE BOSS TO GET PROPER CLEARANCE IN SOME SMALL CASES WE HAVE HAD TO GRIND A LITTLE ON THE ROCKER TO GET AWAY FROM THE NUT IN YOUR CASE A QUICK FIX MAY BE THE HIDE A STUD THAT SPEEDWAY SALES LONGER PUSH RODS WILL JUST CAUSE PROBLEMS IF THE CORRECT GEOMETRY IS NOT THERE
posted August 23, 2003 08:57 PM
Get the screw in studs without a hex head base. They look like exhaust studs. That was the only way I could get my roller rockers to work was with stock push rods. I ran them for about 7 years and didn't have any problems. I think it is Summit or Speedway that has them.
posted August 23, 2003 11:06 PM
keep in mind that the hex on a typical screw in stud is there for a reason. it makes the stud stronger. it's not recommended to run a lot of spring pressure with the "hexless" screw in studs.
thanks for letting us say "screw", jammin!
posted August 29, 2003 12:09 PM
I had the exact same problem with the Harland Sharps using an ARP stud. It ended up that I had to clearance a pretty good portion of that bottom inside area of the rocker that was contacting the radius area of the rocker stud. The harland sharp guy said that happens every now and then because they are so beefy because they are made of aluminum. -Ryan
gerald berry jr Member
posted August 29, 2003 03:16 PM
stud bosses need to be milled down when installing screw in studs
posted August 29, 2003 03:27 PM
lol...I fixed that a while back....as much as you use the word, I would have figured you would have seen that by now....lol