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Author Topic:   3 BRAKE SYSTEM NOT WORKING
maxwell
Member
posted March 23, 2004 11:14 AM
Running a three brake system all disc and have one porportion valve that can be used in driver reach why wouldnt you want to run it to the back brakes instead of the one front brake.Reason for asking I have the valve run to the front and the valve is open all the way when pushing the pedal it should turn a little to the left well it does'ntit brakes straight.iam thinking i have too much rear bias.can anyone explain what to do (ALIAS)


zeroracing
Member
posted March 23, 2004 11:45 AM
The three brake set should be LF,RR and LR. It is setup so when going into the corner the left front brake pulls the car into the corner. Your rear end is locked so a single brake back there would use the axles like a torsion bar and stuff would break.
If the valve to the right front is open all 4 brakes are working and the car will go straight. Shut it and it should go left, if it is shutting off the right front.
We run two cars setup for where we car run three wheels, the problem is if there is friction on the pad to the rotor and you close the line it will heat up and lock up the brake. We run a very $$ 12volt shut off check valve that will allow fluid flow one way but not the other. I cannot remember where we got them but they were for a job and cost something like $600 for 4 of them.
If you cannot get them you must remove the wheel and spread the caliper open then shut the valve and go run it. (Not very practicle). But in the end it is just a crutch!
P.S. If you do find the check valve make sure it is installed correct. I was at WOT on a restart where I put it on three wheels and went into the corner and hit the brakes, the right front(supposed to be shut off) locked up and shot the car to the wall. Nose peice, radiator, fan, shroud and bumper later we found the valve backwards.


alias
Member
posted March 23, 2004 01:22 PM
More rear brake bias generally helps the car
to turn better. You shouldn't depend only on
the brakes to turn the car. Try a little more caster split. Or try a softer left front
spring or just try more left rear bite. You
could go stiffer on your rear springs to help free it up, but you might lose just a little coming off. Is your car super tight on entry or is it just slightly tight? Softer front springs will free it up also.
You are in a limited modified right??? No
pull bars- z-links j-bars etc etc--just stock
location suspension--correct?? Anyone else
have any ideas???


maxwell
Member
posted March 23, 2004 01:52 PM
Alias with the valve ran to rf the valve screwed all the way out i thought it should pull alittle to the left it doesnt it stops straight i i have pos6 caster in rf pos4 in lr should it be split a little more all your other suggestions cost a little bit of money that would not be the route to go at this time i really need a little more lr bite i have 200# right now how much more should i go


alias
Member
posted March 23, 2004 02:00 PM
200 pounds of left rear sounds a bit excessive to me. I guess more left rear
wont solve your problem. I have heard
of guys running more caster split than
that. My understanding is that the more
split--the easier it will turn in and the
more it will load the left rear on the way
out. What kind of rear percentage are you
running?? More rear usually equals tighter
race car--less rear usually equals looser
race car. I am sure some of these tech gurus
on the dirt forum can line you out. Good
luck.


maxwell
Member
posted March 23, 2004 02:21 PM
i runnnin 56% rear i think my set up guy suppose to know more i asked him tonight should i run more split caster or not.i just wanted to tap the brake and let the car turn.my last car would do it i just cant get my new one to [This message has been edited by maxwell (edited March 23, 2004).]

[This message has been edited by maxwell (edited March 23, 2004).]

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