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Author Topic:   Clutch line and shifter for a Falcon - Question.
dluna
Member
posted March 04, 2004 01:23 PM
We have a Falcon on its way. It should arrive tomorrow. We are running a DW-8, w/ floor mount clutch. Anybody know how long of a braided line I will need to get? From the picture of the tranny, I can't make out what type of fitting is on the tranny. Is it just a standard AN4? I need to order it tonight, so I can pick it up tomorrow.

Will any Automatic Type F fluid be sufficient? Change every 2 - 4 nights?

What type of home-made shifters have you all came up with? It looks like a band of steel would work.

Is it tough to change engines w/ the tranny in? Any special tricks?

Still recommended to replace the stock drain plug I am sure.

When coming off the track to get into low gear:
do you put it in neutral
let the car slow
put it into low
then press in the clutch all the way to make it to your pit?

THANKS in advance!

NJantz
Member
posted March 04, 2004 01:46 PM
Pardon my ignorance NJ, but can you please elaborate on that last comment? (i.e. What are the steps one should take to complete this task?)

THANKS!


OKC9
Member
posted March 04, 2004 03:33 PM
We just installed a new falcon in our DW9. The transmission came with a plastic connector installed. All you need is the line and fitting for your master cylinder. The falcon manual will show you how to check the crank to bellhousing alignment with an indicator. We bought a quarter master bellhousing and checked ours as best we could without the indicator. We checked for play between the coupler splines. There was no bind or tightness, so we finished the installation. You may hear a loud squeal when you engage the clutch. We were concerned and called Winters about it. They said it is normal and it has gotten quieter with use. They recommend one quart of Ford ATF. Thats what we used and plan on changing it after each race. The manual that comes with it is great. Hope this helps.


OKC9
Member
posted March 04, 2004 03:34 PM
Our line is about 36 inches from a hung master cylinder. We installed a Smiley's 2-lever shifter with the rods that came with the shifter. Had to bend the handles so it would clear the cockpit wall. We like everything about the tranny except it is pretty hard to shift.

[This message has been edited by OKC9 (edited March 04, 2004).]

dluna
Member
posted March 04, 2004 05:06 PM
Thanks for the info guys.

I forgot one important question that I wanted to ask.

Is anybody running a rear support bracket for the transmission? Does Winters recommend it? We never have used one for the 3-speeds, but we also had to weld up the ears on occasion. We are going to stick with a 3-link this year, so we wont be moving around as much as guys with 4bars, etc.

[This message has been edited by dluna (edited March 04, 2004).]

dirtracer14
Member
posted March 04, 2004 07:02 PM
I have been tring to find the clevis for the trans side? Do you know the part # and are they smooth or like a normal clevis...i know thats its real tight were they go on the trans.


joeltjen
Member
posted March 04, 2004 11:08 PM
quote:
Originally posted by dluna:
Thanks for the info guys.

I forgot one important question that I wanted to ask.

Is anybody running a rear support bracket for the transmission? Does Winters recommend it? We never have used one for the 3-speeds, but we also had to weld up the ears on occasion. We are going to stick with a 3-link this year, so we wont be moving around as much as guys with 4bars, etc.

[This message has been edited by dluna (edited March 04, 2004).]



we welded two ears to the top of our bell housing with 3/8 holes, then ran a tube with 3/8 heims on each end to one of the hole on the side of the tail stock. ( theres about 5 or 6 holes) the trans has heims on the shift rods on the trans so all you need is flat plates on the end of the rods from your shifter, our rods are aluminum. cheap little two lever shifter, works great! falcon specs ford atf we change ours each time we change oil in the engine (2 nights) it's just over a quart. sounds like you got the down shifting figured out, just dont try to rush getting into low. we replced the fitting in the trans and used a regular braided line. also the smaller the master cyl the better. we changed from 7/8 to 3/4 and it made a big difference, you can put more pressure on the clutch pack ( less squealing, also less wear i would think) if i could find a 5/8 or 1/2 inch i'd use it ( never seen one though) you dont need very much volume of fluid to operate it.

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NJantz
Member
posted March 05, 2004 11:36 AM
I was looking at the fastenel site and saw some like that...was wondering if they would work. Thanks for the info ....i picked up some allum stock this morning and heading out to see if i can make some! I will post if i get em.


dirtracer14
Member
posted March 05, 2004 03:55 PM
Here is one i just made...fits pretty good then i threaded some solid 3/8 allum rod ...should be strong enough. I think i am gonna make the shoulder a bit more one the hole side...ill take the hammer to this one and see how strong it is


NJantz
Member
posted March 05, 2004 07:09 PM
I am going to make a few more in the morning...i wish i had a cnc....allum is great to work with real soft. I will post some picks with them on the trans sat or sun.


dluna
Member
posted March 13, 2004 11:21 PM
We tried out our tranny for the first time at practice today. The first time I pushed in the clutch to go in reverse, our plastic line popped a huge hole in it. The tow/push truck drivers didn't like us very much since they had to push us with the car in high gear onto the track each time to get moving.

The question I have now is...It seemed like the only way to get it into Reverse or Low was to shut off the motor, put it in gear, then start it up, then press clutch to move. Otherwise, there was LOTS of grinding. I suppose it is mainly because the tranny is still new, just thought I would ask if anybody else is having to do this???

OKC9
Member
posted March 14, 2004 08:20 AM
dluna, we have found that the falcon works best when you keep the engine rpm at idle and make an aggresive shift into reverse or low. If you try to slip it in gear, grinding will be worse. Where pit space permits, we try to work around the problem by parking so we don't have to back up. That way you can put it in low before you start the engine and don't have to shift from reverse to low.


dirtracer14
Member
posted March 14, 2004 05:01 PM
I drove mine around today with the new falcon. I also found that if you pull it hard into gear it goes pretty quick but if you just try and slide it it grinds a ton. Now how long can you get out of the clutches in one of these? I also asume you dont want to get in it real hard in low gear???? Now i got a big ol smile when i popped it in high gear and was only at about 2000 rpm and stood on it and it jumpped right up no lag....man i was impressed the way it will pick up.....cant wait for the first race...


dluna
Member
posted March 14, 2004 09:09 PM
dirtracer - I don't know anything about the clutch disc life, etc...but I sure do know that it spins up REAL quick when you get on it. VERY nice. I kind of questioned restarts with it until now.

I've never driven a direct drive until this one. From what I have felt thus far (one practice session), I am going to be able to drive the car in a lot deeper! It's like an internal brake

NJantz
Member
posted March 15, 2004 06:52 AM
Keeping the idle as low as possible helps alot. Don't be in a hurry to shift to high, increase speed in 1st to 4000 to 4500 RPM, letout on the clutch, let rpms drop to around 2200 rpm and drop it into high. Don't play with it, should drop right in gear.


LATE MODEL 9W
Member
posted March 17, 2004 11:11 PM
I have had my Falcon for 5 years, change the fluid every 2 weeks and still on the original clutches! I've ran it in both my modified and late model with no problems. Yes they grind a little when new, but that will go away as they wear in.

[This message has been edited by LATE MODEL 9W (edited March 21, 2004).]

TRM38
Member
posted March 23, 2004 10:31 PM
I have a ton of play back and forth in mine....what is to much? I read in the book about not getting it to tight but dont remember anything about to much...anyone have a horror of breaking one that was to loose??


dluna
Member
posted March 30, 2004 08:03 AM
We are using plastic for our clutch line. 2 times now, the line has popped. Both times have been with the engine running, transmission in neutral, and stepping on the clutch (coming off the track trying to get it into low gear).

We are going to go with a regular steel brake line now. The fitting on the tranny has the brass insert for plastic lines so the line doesn't collapse. What's the best way to remove that? Do I need to pull the fitting from the tranny?

I guess we are just using whimpy plastic hose!


NJantz
Member
posted March 30, 2004 08:14 AM
Right...but the way the pits are setup, you can't just coast all the way in high gear to your trailer. We have to switch to low gear and drive it. Both times, I took it out of high and thought I got it in low, but when I pushed in the clutch, it was still in neutral.

When it happened the second time this past Saturday, fluid shot all over the header and started a fire. Plastic is VERY easy to work with, I just can't figure out why it would pop so easy. Perhaps a ton of pressure builds up if you press in the clutch and don't have the tranny in low or reverse.

x13jc
Member
posted March 30, 2004 01:18 PM
tremendous amount of pressure. we have blown a braided brake line ourselves.

X

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RACERX


dluna
Member
posted March 30, 2004 02:47 PM
ahhhh...that could be the problem then!!!

anybody else have this problem?

x13jc - When you ran the braided line, did you just leave the brass insert that sticks out of the tranny fitting in place (the one that keeps plastic line from collapsing)?

OKC9
Member
posted March 30, 2004 03:21 PM
We replaced the fitting on our Falcon and put on a braided line. No problems so far.


x13jc
Member
posted March 30, 2004 07:09 PM
we replaced it. we also had tried to skimp with a braided line that had been pinched slightly once. that was a mistake. put a new one on and so far so good.
also, we have a bert in our other car, and it makes an aweful noise (squeeling) when engaged, but not always do it. once you use yours a few times, you won't go back, they are very nice pieces, and respond very quickly to acceleration.
X

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RACERX


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