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Author Topic:   fuel return line
chapa73
Member
posted December 12, 2003 09:29 PM
Putting together a mod right now,and I am wondering about the fuel return line.I see alot of different stuff from $80-$200,whats the best way to go.

Also,my fuel cell,wich has never had gas in it,is about 2-3 years old,been sitting in the box in house,it just has a pick up and the vent,both on top,do i need to fix up another vent,and use the current vent as a return.
By the way,it is a JAZ fuel cell,with the steel canister.

Thanks

chapa73
Member
posted December 15, 2003 02:08 PM
come on guys,73 views and no help!!!
It may be kinda a dumb question,but just want some opionans on it.

Once again,Thanks very much.

Glen

jammin james
Member
posted December 15, 2003 02:35 PM
never use a return line,just a line through the filter to the pump


Rick D
Member
posted December 15, 2003 02:59 PM
If you are running the High Volume-High pressure Fuel pump ( 12 psi) you willprobalbly want to run some sort of regulator set-up to get your fuel in the 8-9 psi range. One of our cars has the Barry grant Throttle by-pass on it, with #6 return line back to the tank ( you wil need to add another line to the tank because you will still need a Vent). It works very well with the 15 lb mechanical fuel pumpafter it is set correctly. Our other car has a adjustable regulator without a return, and that seems to work OK also.


chapa73
Member
posted December 15, 2003 03:29 PM
thank you very much!


44nymod
Member
posted December 15, 2003 04:28 PM
What I use is a fuel filter that has a return line fitting on it. I got mine from Speedwaymotors. I've been using this for two years now never had a problem. One bit of advise I will give you from personal trial and error is if you can run a belt driven fuel pump BUY one. You will have problems with a mech.


NJantz
Member
posted December 16, 2003 12:51 PM
If you run a mechanical fuel pump (15 psi) with methanol, your gonna have to run a return line and some type of pressure regulator. Otherwise your gonna float the needles on the carb and it is gonna flood. It is easy to put your filter on the rail just before you get your line to the fuel pump...right before the filter, add a T and run your return line right in before the filter. It will recirculate the fuel right back into the fuel line upon bypass instead of into the fuel cell. This way, you do not have to have as much line and you do not have to have another fitting in your fuel cell. Easy fix and we run it on our mod with no problems.

jammin


Wauge28
Member
posted December 19, 2003 06:57 PM
This string comes in perfect time for me. Just got rid of my throttle bypass with the idea to make it "easier".

I am trying not to be stupid so bare with me. Can I tap a fitting into my fuel filter???Then do I run a line back to the fuel cell as the return line? If I do this, do I still need a fuel regulator at the carb? Doesn't the return line kinda act like a regulator in that when the needles are shut, the fuel will take the easiest way back to the cell? What do you set your regulator to? 9 PSI? Why not just buy a 9 lb pump in that case and run it without all the cr@p? Help, I am cheap and confused.

[This message has been edited by Wauge28 (edited December 19, 2003).]

tony17j
Moderator
posted December 20, 2003 08:01 AM
You can tap your fuel filter, but I think it is easier just buying a T and placing it in the line right before it. YOu need anywhere from 2.5-5 lbs of idle pressure and full throttle pressure of 6-9. If you get a 9 lb pump, it may do the trick as long as it is a 1/2 inlet and outlet, but volume with methanol is the key to keeping the starvation down. I would rather run a 15lb block pump because you know it is going to get the volume of methanol there fast enough to fill the log and the bowls. Better to have too much in this situation and back it down. One more thing to think about...as a fuel pump wears, there is a way to let more fuel in with a 15 by adjusting the regulator, where if you had a 9, then I your out of luck, go back and buy another one.

jammin


racer 4
Member
posted December 23, 2003 08:39 PM
Thanks Autoshop. I just bought a belt drive pump today.


Dustejr73
Member
posted December 24, 2003 10:54 PM
wog you told me that you never had a prob with the block pump, i on the other hand have torched many engines for lack of fuel, i now have a belt drive for my 305!!!


racer 4
Member
posted December 24, 2003 11:19 PM
the common problem people have with the kse is putting too much tension on the belt resulting in pulling too hard on the main shaft and wearing out the seals i keep mine so that the belt slides on and off with just a little drag without loosening the adjuster nuts remember this is a cog drive belt and would have to be really loose to jump a tooth.


lucky13
Member
posted December 25, 2003 07:54 PM
imca01- Sorry man. I want to keep them all as I have 2 turn key cars and want the spares.

racer4- I seized the bushings once with too much belt pressure. When KSE says "no serp belts" they mean it. I had it side loaded way too hard. Live and learn. That serp set-up was so cool....for about 5 laps.

I revise my statement. Other than stupid things I have done, I haven't had any trouble.

imca01
Member
posted December 26, 2003 05:45 PM
Thanks Lucky13. If you hear of one, give me a shout.


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