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Author Topic:   Metric stub
zeroracing
Member
posted October 23, 2003 11:41 AM
The guy pitting next to me has a 4 bar car with a chevelle clip and he is always bottoming out the R/F, he has really stiff L/R and R/F springs. I have a 4 bar with a metric clip and don't bottm my R/F out, but I have some soft rear springs. I guess it is in the set-up more then what clip it is, is what makes the weight roll onto the R/F getting into the turns.



zeroracing
Member
posted October 23, 2003 06:03 PM
krp lower control arm is a nova lower, as used on all k mods that i know of, kmods are now contracted built thru Harris Auto racing. Stock metric frame is narrower than older chevelle and the pivot points between the front lower control arms is narrower, when the front is narrower you have more roll in the front of the chassis which is why most metric chassis use stiffer springs in the front than a chevelle chassis car would use. Also cars with short pull bars will have more roll and react quicker than cars with longer pullbars but can be erratic and unstable at times which is why more builders including myself are using longer pullbars around 41". Crown vic stubbbed cars can be very good chassis , I have built a few of them. Hope this all helps. Also one more thing the nova lower control arms arent exactly a bolt on thing either and it messes up the front steering and so on.


zeroracing
Member
posted October 23, 2003 10:28 PM
Custom,the 2004 k-mods are no longer being built by Harris,i talked to to them today and they said they will be building them themselfs,not sure what happened there?????Hope their as good as the 03's are.


Dman
Member
posted October 30, 2003 11:52 AM
Dman I am running a metric clip car with nova lowers just wondering what the right steering parts were for the correct bump steer in the car. What drag link, idler arm, and swedged tube length to use. Thanks for any help


Dman
Member
posted November 07, 2003 12:40 PM
The best center link you can get for the metric is from an 85 IROC Z. the inner tie rod mounts are real close to the lower a frame mount widths. Use the stock idler and steering arm.The tie rod length you will have to determine for yourself according to the spindle you choose to run. You will need to make spacers at the tie rod ends to get the tie rods to run parallel with the line between the inner a-frame mt. and the ball joint pivot point.It will make the bump better but not perfect(whatever that is).This is about as good as it gets using stock parts.There may be a better way to get rid of the bump but I am not aware of it.It is almost impossible to get it right on without fabricating a center link.Bump is not as critical on dirt as asphalt but should be kept in check.Good luck! Dman


EMOD1
Member
posted November 07, 2003 01:48 PM
Dosen't the nova lowers give more travel? Also cant you lower the car more too? I've seen Peirce Mods with nova lowers, that are very fast. EMOD1