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Author Topic:   How to hook-up a 2-link on dry slick
tilley88
Member
posted October 19, 2003 05:21 PM
I've got a 2002 DW8 that I'll be runin next year on a large 3/8 very dryslick track. It's set-up on a short 2-link w/plugs. I need input on springs to use, placement, angles on the bars, just any input at all would be helpful giving me ideas. I'm thinking of running a 200 on a slider on the front of the LR, 150 on top of RR. I've got a Monte bar and an Afco spring pullbar. I've got a J-bar and a short bar. The rest of the chassis will be set up as per typical DW specs. I just need help gettin the rear to work like a 4-bar and hook up hard, just not so hard I 3-wheel or break things.


Majic Maker
Member
posted October 23, 2003 10:14 PM
For the track that you are going to run on. I would put a 200 in front of the rearend on a slider and a 175 on a slider behind the rr. The afco pullbar with a 800 pound spring will work best with the short bar 3rd hole down on pinion and 8 inches up on the frame. The best way i could get this to work was with no less than 150 lbs of lr.


2nd2none
Member
posted October 24, 2003 01:02 PM
dirtworks setup sheet is real close to make a fast car, the DW8's do like to higher than what dirtworks says to run, we ran 1/2" higher on fronts and 3/4" higher on back. Also start with around 60% rear, then take rear out to loosen car up.


Wauge28
Member
posted October 24, 2003 01:39 PM
Tilley...OK check this out. I have been dying to try this. I ran a 2 link for a while but threw in the towel too soon. I gave in to the 4 bar z link like most others.

Assuming!!! you run a dry...very dry and smooth track with very little banking???

Pull bar. Run a spring bar with a progressive spring...make it soft early but not too soft that it over rotates the rearend. Now, move you bird cage inboard a little so you can add a clamp bracket for the COE to the LR and put it as close to the LR wheel as possible. Just like Majic said, do your RR on the back of the housing. As rotates it takes bite out of the Right and also creates automatic body roll as it drops the right side. Also Majic cross/LR bite numbers are great (150). Put all that LR bite in the car and then just adjust the pull bar angle to take away or add bite.

I'm telling ya...I think that is the trick!!!

OH, panard bar; I have always like the J-bar the best. The shorty is OK if you are REALLY easy and smooth on the gas. If you hit a bump or bust the throttle too hard, the car tends to jump up on the bar and create a huge throttle push. Long bar is great for side bite but it gives up a bit on LR bite/forward bite.

My problem is that we have rough heavy tracks. It would NEVER work for us here.



tilley88
Member
posted October 24, 2003 04:44 PM
Yeah, the track I'll be runnin is very dry, very smooth, and moderately banked. What rate progressive spring should I use? Do I need to mount the COE's and shocks straight-up or at an angle? And I'll probably stick with the J-bar as that seems to be the popular choice. BTW, 2nd2none, what tires are you runnin?


Wauge28
Member
posted October 24, 2003 06:08 PM
I think the Progressive is like a 600 to 1100 or something close. If you can order a specific, I am think a 500 low side is great. You can adjust the rate with pre-load.

Shocks are fine within a certain degree of angle. Someone might know the exact...I don't. Sorry. As far as the COE, the straighter the better!

tilley88
Member
posted October 24, 2003 08:30 PM
Well, if you mean straight-up as in vertically, then I'll mount my shocks straight-up, too, so I won't get any bind.