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Author Topic:   Best rear suspension setup for b-mod
posted June 02, 2003 12:47 PM
Ive got a 2000 K-mod and it was built for a swingarm but I hear from a majority of people the swingarm isnt the way to go due to inconsistency's.. Im a green horn karter and looking for something tuneable and driveable to learn with..
Ive began putting it together as a 3link with a rubber biscuit torque link. Ive got the coil springs on clamp style mounts 4-3/8's from center of axle to center of springs, and located nearly flush with the top of the axle housing. Both in front. Im using a clamp on style, trailing arm shock mount, im having some difficulties geting shock angle due to congestion of parts but can easily remedy that with a new upper shock mounting pos. The other thing Ive ran into is that I will need to incoporate an adj. mounting brkt.(multiple hole) for the front of the trailing arms to connect with the frame. the problem there is that the j-bar post brace and other main cage structures are in the way but I figure I can attach the bracket a couple inches rearward and use an equivelantly shorter trailing arm.

Let me know if Im way out there on this or heading down the right track, the motor rules are 9:1 360cui, main track will be a 1/2 mile with broad sweeping corners and decent banking. Let me know what everyone feels is the right rear suspension type for the b-mod, I feel I wanna keep the car simple in the rear so not to overhook the car..

One other questions is will torque arms work on an X'ed chassis? Seem to work on the late models with lots of power but reputable mod guys say you cant on cars with the X.. doesnt add up to me.. fill me in if you would.



[This message has been edited by mod16 (edited June 02, 2003).]

posted June 04, 2003 02:48 PM
The car was a swing arm right? with the sliders on the trailing arms? If that was the case I would have left it alone!! Those cars are very consinant. They go in straight and come off the corner hard. You just need to make sure the sliders are good ones. We run against alot of swingarm DW's around here. It takes a little setup with the car and they may not be the fastest car but they are consistant. With the torue arm or lift bar the car will hook up hard and be rocket. I think the car would be a good starter car. If you start changing everything around and get something messed up or an angle wrong, with you being new to the car, you may get some bad habits from a bad handling car. I would put the car back together and drive it for a month. If you have problems then try to fix them. That's my opinion. gl ltr spde

posted June 04, 2003 03:18 PM
As far as rear setups it is hard to beat a 2 link with pull bar for simplicity and consistency. Less parts to mess with and once you get it set there is not much to mess with like a 4 link or z link. I know 4 bar cars are fast but you have to stay on top of them for a good setup.

posted June 04, 2003 05:16 PM
i asked this question also a while back seem most guys agree that a 3 link or a leaf would be the best for consistan and easy to adjust for a rookie with the limited power we have in the b mods. where do you plan on running at i'm gonna try to get one together for next year to run webster city how bout you?

posted June 04, 2003 10:05 PM
I agree keep it a swingarm but make mounts to put on a long rear mount panhard bar just because of the limited pony's and the wide sweeping turns and banking these cars seem to have a great amount of side bite with j-bar and might be to much

posted June 04, 2003 10:21 PM
Long story short I got a burned by a jerk on the first car I bought and the frame was not useable so I bought the k-mod and began converting parts over, the other car had a torque arm with a 2 link under it, but it was cobbeled deep down, i bought a new floater for the k-mod and built clamp brackets, and began mocking up 3 / 2 link with a torque link.
Ive talked to a few guys since my post im pretty sure Im going to put the 3 link under it with a spring rod w/ prog. spring and put the coils on good sliders, that will allow me to explore spring/shock locations a bit more. and should be a quite simple set-up.. I continually hear the k-mod will be real tough to make it turn it's pretty notorius for being tight. Thanks for the input guys.

17- Im thinking Park Jefferson maybe Onawa,


posted June 04, 2003 11:12 PM
Mod16, I know what you mean by getting burned. I bought a car from a builder and have had to change all kinds of stuff on it. Seems like have had to re-do everything including straighten and rework the rearend. Think I have it ready to run now even though it is almost midseason. Good luck hope to see you at Park Jeff and BBB. Later

posted June 16, 2003 11:35 PM
i had a 3 link and it seem to be the best for me it stayed consitint and would respond to changes and could fell the diffrence real quick and easy my springs were on top of rearend and had progressive spring pullbar with panhard bar level the car would stay good and could make little change in between races to help with the cond change to track thanks and good luck


GO 24
posted June 17, 2003 11:27 AM
I'd go back to the swing-arm also, it's awful hard to dial yourself out of those cars and that'll keep you on the track----seat time is what ya need.

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