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Author Topic:   BEST TRANNY SET UP??
A2KY2K88
Member
posted January 21, 2001 10:46 PM
Just wondering what everyone thinks is the best tranny set up for an IMCA mod. I had too many problems cracking glides...


dirtrackracer
Member
posted January 22, 2001 11:45 AM
Are you guys cracking the case or bellhousings? I've run glides since the early 80's with no problems at all. I've run em in mods, latemodels and now my limited late. You gotta let em hang at the rear with no crossmember, run the extended dowel pins and watch that the yoke never contacts the rearseal area. I currently run a glide from JW Racing Transmissions with the Ultra Bell. The Ultra Bell is a much thicker piece and will withstand alot of abuse. Glides have such an advantage over others especially on restarts while leading. I change fluid every 4th race and use a good cooler. A bronze filter is also a good choice due to the fact you can clean it and get good life from it, fiber filters need to be disgarded and replaced when servicing fluid. I also use the 9 oz. shifter with positive detents from Performance Bodies that eliminates over shifts. The JW unit also has an electric neutral feature that is pretty trick. It utilizes a button switch that you simply press when shifting to reverse or into low initializing movement. The car will only "creep" while the switch is engaged allowing smooth engagement, and then locks solidly into gear when released. Also remember that 1/4" endplay is critical to the drive so that pump gear failure is reduced. Do this and never try to load the car onto your trailer and you should be just fine.


tls88mod
Member
posted January 22, 2001 09:44 PM
I use a muncie alum. 4 speed with 1st & 2nd gear taken out and a 5.5" triple disc clutch. The muncie trany is harder to find but quite a bit lighter than the cast iron 3 speed. They are very reliable, I've been running the same trany for the last 4 or 5 years. I've seen a lot of guys leading a race and drop out because of automatic trany failure. Like they say "to finish first you must first finish"


wfoondirt
Member
posted January 22, 2001 10:02 PM
Personally i like the bert type transmissions, although i dont beleive they are imca legal anymore. I have used the same bert for 5 years with zero problems, i change the one quart of fluid weekly and replace the clutches in the off season, though you could probably go 3 years on the clutches if you dont abuse them, i usually get bored in the winter and replace them anyhow.


7a
Member
posted January 22, 2001 10:04 PM
we run a sagenaw good strong tranny and you can find them anywere


A2KY2K88
Member
posted January 22, 2001 10:48 PM
I AM CRACKING THE BELLHOUSING AREA. I DO NOT RUN A CROSS-MEMBER, JUST A MIDPLATE. AT FIRST, I DID NOT HAVE THE RIGHT LENGTH DRIVE SHAFT AND WAS RIPPING THE TRANNY'S OUT. NOW, THERE IS SO MUCH TORQUE, ITS CRACKING THE BELLHOUSINGS. IS THERE ANY WAY TO CORRECT THIS?? I APPRECIATE EVERYONES INPUT SO FAR..NOW HOW ABOUT THOSE SHOCK SET-UP SECRETS.........


MOD RACER#93
Member
posted January 23, 2001 07:15 PM
4 years of modified racing with the same powerglide. Never even had a spare til last year, and I only needed it because the input shaft in the first one let go. Spent for a stronger input shaft this time, and don't expect any more trouble.
I've heard as many guys say they hate them as those that love them.. It's gotta be something in how they're prepared.

Chalk me up to the column of guys who swear by them..

my $.02,
Matt


bbracer17
Member
posted January 24, 2001 06:14 PM
I've heard good and bad about Power Glides but I just bolted one in my car to try so I guess I'll let you know later. One good thing I can say is that there is about a 60 lbs savings by using a glide over a saginaw steel housing, and 7 1/4 Quartermaster clutch.


MOD RACER#93
Member
posted January 24, 2001 09:14 PM
At the end of the 99 race season I let someone talk me into trying a powerglide by a well known supplier, well the 3rd night out I went into turn one under the leader and had him set up for the picking ,but ,when I got back on the gas the car would not go. I rolled into the pits to find out that the trans had exploded the tail section,ripped the driveshaft in half. The yoke and part of the trans went through the interior and out the window net,cutting me up in the process. I have the trans on my workbench as A reminder of what not to do. I suggest either a brinn(because it uses the same size driveshaft as a muncie or sag). I currently use a muncie with 2 gears removed and a tilton ulgc bellhousing setup. This setup has not given me one moments problem.

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danfox99
Member
posted January 26, 2001 09:51 AM
quote:
Originally posted by A2KY2K88:
Just wondering what everyone thinks is the best tranny set up for an IMCA mod. I had too many problems cracking glides...

the only power glide i have used was back in 83 my rokie yr in street stock's won championship.this tr will be first yr in a mod and we are going to use are late model stuff richmond t-10 with the tilton stuff. costly i know but bulit proof.


GnarlyCar
Member
posted January 26, 2001 09:54 AM
Team 49,
If I was a betting man, I'd put money on a driveshaft failure rather than a tranny failure in that case. If your drive shaft is out of balance and your front u-joint let go, that would send the yoke off through the cockpit, and tear up the tail section in the process. There's just nothing in the tail section of the tranny to explode like that. I'm not saying it's impossible, but I think there could be other things to consider.

food for thought,
Matt


team49
Member
posted January 26, 2001 02:25 PM
Matt ,
It wasn't driveshaft failure because we found the yoke,u-joint and 11" of driveshaft in the aircleaner of a car that was behind me. I'd rather not take the chance,besides it cost me to many stitches. I had thought that maybe to much movement of the rear had pulled the yoke out just far enough to cause a bind but who knows.
Later!
Wayne


A2KY2K88
Member
posted January 26, 2001 04:09 PM
quote:
Originally posted by team49:
Matt ,
It wasn't driveshaft failure because we found the yoke,u-joint and 11" of driveshaft in the aircleaner of a car that was behind me. I'd rather not take the chance,besides it cost me to many stitches. I had thought that maybe to much movement of the rear had pulled the yoke out just far enough to cause a bind but who knows.
Later!
Wayne

TEAM 49,

THATS EXACTLY WHAT WAS HAPPENING TO ME AT FIRST. I HAD A LONGER YOKE MADE, AND I REPLACED THE BAD 90/10 SHOCK. WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS, THE REAR UNLOADED SO MUCH THAT IT PULLED THE SHAFT OUT SO IT BINDED AND BROKE. I GOT LUCKY AND DID NOT GET HURT. LONGER YOKE FIXED THAT PROBLEM ALONG WITH THE NEW SHOCK. I JUST CANT FIGURE OUT WHY THE BELLHOUSING IS CRACKING.



4ord
Member
posted January 26, 2001 08:41 PM
Where did you get the longer yoke? I could use one, our 4-bar moves alot.


Strokin3
Member
posted January 27, 2001 06:59 PM
I,d like to know where to get the longer
yolk too. I know the mod rules don't allow
it probably as our rules are not to clear,
we are going to install a Richmond Quick
2 + 2 quick change transmission.


quickrick01
Member
posted January 27, 2001 10:14 PM
I found it, Colman Racing about $80.00


KK17
Member
posted January 28, 2001 10:26 AM
there are 3 of us running identicle type cars.i run a 5.5 tilton/saginaw 3sp. they ran powerglides.between the two of them they wrecked the trans 11 times. they were leading 3 features when the trans let go.if your car is hooked up hard the powerglides dont hold up.i spent 2,000.00 on my set-up. they spent over 3,000.00 and lost how much in winnings and those valuble imca national points.they wrecked there trannys several different ways....twisted input shaft off was the most common....never busted a case though.they bought the hardened input shaft and it didnt help. NOW THEY BOTH RUN THE SAME SET-UP I DO WITH NO PROBLEMS!!!!!!!
I'll stick with bullet proof.....why take the risk???


jklostermann
Member
posted February 06, 2001 12:31 PM
Berts are bullet proof! If imca would allow them it would be the only way for you to go!


cranesracing
Member
posted February 08, 2001 05:36 PM
I ran a powerglide in a bomber for about 5 years and only broke 1 tailshaft when the rearend broke lose.never had anyother problems.I run a saginaw 3sp with a 10,000rpm 7.5" kevlar & composite clutch and flywheel they only weight 12.5lbs in my mod


MOD RACER#93
Member
posted February 08, 2001 07:53 PM
Hi, My Name is Tim Williams, I live in southern Minnesota, Does anyone have a powerglide for a imca stock car for sale? What is the average cost for one? Any info anyone can give me will be greatly apppreciated. Thanks Tim......

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Timinator


jammin
Administrator
posted July 24, 2002 06:26 PM
I know I am going to be unpopular here by saying this, but personally, from now on, I will not run anything but a Layne. I was a powerglide guy from way back, and I have used them for many years. But the Layne did several things for me that I havent done in a long time the last time I raced. One, the layne and the starter weigh less than the glide by itself, take a 10 lb starter and throw it away (30 lbs if stock). 2, the tranny has allowed me to get much more power out of smaller motors. I did not realize how much power loss that a glide has in comparison. It is completely unreal with the difference. 3, I can run with berts and brinns with larger motors with my IMCA motor. The power loss is much less so I can get actually more power to the ground and run with these fellas with my IMCA setup, already proven it. 4, Durability....a few months ago.....we were running a b-main and going for the lead when we got tapped, the power glide we had in the car broke. Just a few weeks ago, we were at Flippin and had our car completely run over in the front end.......toed out, everything.....7 laps in. We finished the race even though the car was torn up.....tranny worked fine, didnt even grunt. Tell me which is better? I know you guys are gonna harp on the cost of the tranny, but when you look at the overall picture of mods, I want to be able to run anywhere. In doing so, one, you have to have a tranny that will keep up with the berts and brinns when you are running non sanctioned events. 2 you have to have something IMCA legal if you are running sanctioned stuff. Now, I dont have to worry about either one, I just go run and have fun, my tranny meets both requirements and rules. I want to travel a little, this way we do not have to worry about what rules are being run at that specific track, we are going to be legal. To me, that is what I started running mods for in the first place. Rules consistancy. If these tracks want to play games with their rules....lettem, I am ready to roll with whatever they have going. If you run multiple tracks sanctioned and non, you are gonna have to have different transmissions......2 trannies are gonna cost the same as this one, I dont have to work near as hard as you guys if you are trading trannies every week to run different tracks.....

My two cents.

jammin


autoshop
Member
posted July 25, 2002 11:03 AM
Jammin, What is the cost of a Layne? I've heard the cost is around $2000, but have never talked or asked anybody that actually bought one. Just a ballpark figure would be great. Thanks, and ......See ya at the track!!

[This message has been edited by modracr41 (edited July 25, 2002).]

TRM38
Member
posted July 25, 2002 11:53 PM
actually...the sniper is about 4400.....you have to factor in, you get a custom starter, flywheel, everything is there just to bolt up and go. I am sold....the cost seems high, but I would rather spend it on a tranny than a motor and get the same results in IMCA.

jammin


Racer X
Member
posted August 14, 2002 08:20 PM
how do i hook up my electric kick down up its a 400 tranny 350 chevy motor


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