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Author Topic:   manaul or powerglide
posted February 27, 2004 05:21 PM
I race Imca Hobby stock, I have always ran the 3 speed manual. I want the lightest setup and whichever will give me the most horsepower. I can run a 3 speed saginaw, but we have a 16lb mininum flywheel, plus a lightweight single disc 10'' clutch which is another 20 lbs, so thats 36lbs of rotating weight there, and I have the light wieght saginaw with 13 lbs saved inside. Thinking going to a powerglide, even though I hear they break easier, I would go to a bushore or a TCI, not just someone that builds them off the street, with a 26lb converter. I WANT TO HEAR WHAT OTHER IMCA HOBBYS THINK WOULD BE THE BETTER SETUP, everyone says go manual, but remember we cant run the ultra light weight, 5.5 triple disc clutch setup like modifieds and stock cars.

posted February 27, 2004 06:01 PM
i think the dummy converter powerglide is the faster setup due to the weight. I think it's unfortunate that IMCA is allowing them because of the cost IMO. I'm gonna stick with my saginaw for the sake of price and reliability. -- i also have another thought/question on this, on a dry slick track with skinny 205 tires is it any better to have a low moment of inertia that will shock the tires?

posted February 28, 2004 12:56 AM
performance wise you would probably be better off with the glide only thing with a glide is you never know how long that will last personally i wouldn't run one if you gave it to me we have had to much trouble with glides in my uncles mod over the last 3 years 6 good glides have died on him went to a 3 speed last year no tranny problems you might be the fasted on the track but could also be the fastest one to the trailer also too some guys have luck with um but i've just had to much bad to go back

[This message has been edited by True Blue (edited March 01, 2004).]

posted February 28, 2004 06:44 AM
broken cases,burn'n um up

posted February 28, 2004 12:29 PM
The reason your breaking the cases is running solid mounts. Also they should have a cooler instald on them instead of running the lines in a loop. You need some way to get some of the heat away.

posted February 28, 2004 04:50 PM
thanks for the input pete but he didn't run a solid mount had a mid plate and cooler wise you don't build near the heat with a direct drive as you do with a converter so there is realy no need for a cooler heck my t-350 i run with a converter and no cooler haven't burnt one up yet and all i do with it is power wash it and change filter and fluid when i change oil run the cheapest fluid i can find no probs i even asked tci about going to the dummy converter on my 350 and he told me with no converter and a deep pan you realy don't need a cooler with the short races we run if it was a 200 lap enduro thats a different story but your talk'n 10-15 laps on a 1/2 mile that not all that much

posted February 28, 2004 06:43 PM
I've been running imca hobby for 6 years now, and have never burned up a pg. I have broke a lot of cases tho. Since going to solid motor mounts and rubber trans mount the only broken cases have been from bent drive shafts or mounts.
The only time I notice any advantage is on slow restarts. If was to start all over again I would run a 3 speed. Just tired of replacing cases. I also have never run a cooler. Just rebuild them every year (run 3 tracks).
If your track gets dry, might look at gene's post. Makes sense. Anyway, just have fun.

posted March 01, 2004 08:08 AM
I too have broken quite a few cases. Finally got tired of it (the last one made it 1/3 of a lap) and bought a Dedenbear case for $900 from Summit. Swapped all the parts in and haven't had another problem. Yes, $900 is a decent chunk of change, but how much does each broken case cost you? At least $200 if you DNF (think of everything you wasted to get there, hauler fuel, car fuel, entry fees, plus the tranny itself). So if you break 3 or 4 cases and DNF'd, you pretty much could have paid for the good case and been done with it.

Plus, the Dedenbear case has revised fluid passages that are claimed to improve reliability. I was used to the 'glide and didn't want to swap in a manual (would have been $500+ to swap with a bellhousing, tranny, master and slave cylinders, shifter, flywheel clutch plus more time than I had to be ready for the next week)

IMHO, the Dedenbear (or J&W) case are the best investment someone can make if they want to run a 'glide. I think it's kind of funny that people will dump $3k-$5k in a motor for a stock then run a tranny that they were given for free or paid $50 for. Just doesn't make sense.

Ego Racing
posted March 01, 2004 01:22 PM
If you run a PG with a motor plate you should run some kind of mount under the rear of the trans, The case is to thin to take the weight of the trans bouncing on it and it will give up. The mount need to be flexable also as a solid mount will break the case.
We were burning up them when we first started running them and an oldtimer told us to drill a hole in the reverse drum to relieve the increased pressure while in drive and we have not lost one yet.

posted March 01, 2004 01:31 PM
Broke several cases years ago...Tranny man said to use factory bolts into the block, the type with a serated shank, and build longer dowel pins for the block...Never broke another.

posted March 01, 2004 07:12 PM
guys need to remember imca doesn't alow after market cases

posted March 03, 2004 02:22 PM
We built a case support that ran from the mid plate to the rear trans mount location and put a stock mount on it. We ran the same trans case for over 3 seasons, it finally broke when another car hit the trans with its front bumper. This was on asphault so it was not bounced around as much as on dirt.

posted March 05, 2004 09:02 AM
The way that EGO Racing did the mount is the ideal way to do it. Cases don't just "break" for no reason. If that was the case then the 1300-1800hp cars that use them for drag racing would break them instantly. There is usually an alignment problem or driveshaft problem that causes it, or a wreck.


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