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Author Topic:   Street-Stock Metric Chassis?
posted February 11, 2004 05:26 PM
Anyone ever ran a Street-Stock Metric Chassis?
I am building one and have always ran leaf spring cars.

Do these cars make good Street-Stocks?

Would locating the rear coil springs behind and half way of the axel tube be better than running the springs on top of the rear axel tube?

I am building the car without the original stock floor pan.

I am leaving the original rear frame rails and trailing arms but intend installing a 9" Ford floater rear-end with metric rearend brackets.

I will also be replacing the original upper A-Arms with none-adjustable tubular after-market A-Arms.

I will be setting the engine back to #1 spark plug inline with the upper balljoint.I will also notch the frame crossmember for fuel pump clearance.

We are also allowed to run wedge-bolts in the front and rear of the metric chassis.

Any advice will be deeply appreciated.

Thanks Steven.

posted February 11, 2004 06:16 PM
I'd advise reading instead of writing. There are a godzillian threads and posts about metrics here!

posted February 11, 2004 06:19 PM
We have ran a metric chassis as a street stock, built pretty close to what your building except for the 9" floater and moving the engine back, we ran a chevy 12 bolt rear end. We thought about moving engine back but eveyone said you will only gain 1-2 percent rear weight?
Our car is for sale, e-mail me if your interested
If you plan on moving the rear spring buckets, I would put them ahead of the rear axle and use axle wrap to help create forward bite, (seems like there was a discussion about this a few weeks ago) I think they discussed taller springs as well.
If your going to cut out all of the floorboards and fire wall, I would suggest moving the cage and entire body back as far as possible. I've seen cars built like this, the driver sits where the back seat used to be, and their rear % was 50% or more without adding any weight.
As far as the front suspension, My brother and I spent days putting the aftermarket upper a-arms on, we would tack the brackets in real good, then set the motor in, and check the alignment. Then back out again. This was our first try with tubular uppers, I sure hope you or someone else knows a easier way to do this part.
We had a little trouble with the front shocks, the way we mounted them (welded shock mount to center of lower a-arm) we had clearance issues. I seen cars now with the shock mounted to the upper ball joint (a bracket bolts in with the ball joint)then a bracket on the front hoop kind of high, sure makes changing shocks easier, but don't know how well it works?
I hope I gave you a couple good ideas, Good luck building your car.

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