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Author Topic:   Best rear spring setup for foward bite
ryan
Member
posted January 20, 2004 03:22 PM
Any opinions on the best rear spring location on a metric for best forward bite and why it would help. I have read about the right rear back and the left rear forward or both forward. When you offset them do you move the whole spring or just rear end side. How much would you move them or does it not make a difference what you do? This is on 3500lbs car with a 9inch floater. Thanks


zeroracing
Member
posted January 20, 2004 05:07 PM
I once drove a metric around with the body off and looking back at the rearend i was amazed at how much it twistted under throttle.I've heard left spring forward and right back but i'd just try the left and see if it makes a diff.


cautrell05
Member
posted January 20, 2004 05:40 PM
like they said, it depends on how much the rearend rotates under power. if the car has alot of angle in the upper links it will rotate more. if all the links are mounted flat or close to flat(under 5 degrees) the rearend wont twist as much.

How far the bottom of the spring is off set also makes a difference. I have seen some that the spring is mounted about 6 inches ahead of the axle on a drop bracket so the bottom of the spring is even with the bottom of the axle tube. If the spring is mounted right on top of the axle, the housing can rotate 15 degrees and there wont be much difference. when the housing rotates it moves the spring mount. when the mount is right on top it just moves to the back as the housing rotates. if the mount is on the front of the housing it will lift up as the housing rotates. by mounting the left infront and the right behind it adds preload to the left spring as the housing rotates. and at the same time it removes preload from the right rear increasing rear split and cross under power.

ryan
Member
posted January 21, 2004 08:40 PM
Anybody else????


racinrobb2003
Member
posted January 21, 2004 09:05 PM
quote:
Originally posted by ryan:
Any opinions on the best rear spring location on a metric for best forward bite and why it would help. I have read about the right rear back and the left rear forward or both forward. When you offset them do you move the whole spring or just rear end side. How much would you move them or does it not make a difference what you do? This is on 3500lbs car with a 9inch floater. Thanks
You do not want to move the rear end foward in the car.If you move the right side in it will tighten up the car on entry.At the sacrafice of straight away speed.With out the right rear end susppension parts like that of a I.M.C.A that enduce rear steer to the left or right you are better off squaring the rear end and putting the left rear spring in front off the rear end and the right side in the rear of the rear end this also alows yot to use a closer rear spring split 25# or less


zeroracing
Member
posted January 21, 2004 10:00 PM
I would mount both springs in front of rear end with the bottom of the springs even with bottom of housing. That why when you get on the gas of the corner the rear end will roll up pushing up on the car and putting more weight on the rear end. And that will give you more bit. In thery.
Ran this set-up on a malibu and it worked much better then stock location.

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Keep it sideways!


zeroracing
Member
posted January 21, 2004 11:55 PM
Wasn't talking about leading the rearend just offset springs.


dan ferry
Member
posted January 22, 2004 05:25 PM
im wondering this too zero i was trying to think of this all day after reading last night. i cant see how itll turn much except the little the bushings would allow for considering the top arms have no springs in them. but im open to anything someone help me understand


ryan
Member
posted January 22, 2004 08:08 PM
You can also drill the bushings for more movement.


o5racer
Member
posted January 22, 2004 09:04 PM
If the upper arms have alot of angle in them they will lift up on the chassis and let the rearend rotate back quite a bit. Trust me. On my old car the upper links were WAY up off the housing. upper links between 25 and 30 degrees. the rear would lift about 2 inches or more under power. I ended up cutting them down though because it made the rear roll center way to high and on rough tracks the rearend was very erratic.


dan ferry
Member
posted January 23, 2004 06:38 PM
ok i can understand that so to get the arms angled up more at my height id have to shorten them and would increase pinion angle. thxs


o5racer
Member
posted January 24, 2004 01:16 PM
You dont shorten the upper arms, you just make the mount on the rearend higher. Maybe add a little pinion angle to compensate for the increase in housing wrap.


rat406
Member
posted January 24, 2004 08:10 PM
I was a point champion in 95 with a metric car 3400lbs depending on the track we ran the springs on top of the rearend and changed spring rate for a good track we ran 250 250 but as the track dryed out and became slick we got softer on the right side like a 200 but we never had more than a 50lbs split so if we went with a 200 left we had a 175 or 150 rt I like the car to role over on the rr to pull you off the corner but the bad part about the stock suspention is it is bad it ***** so dont put much HP in the car we won more races with a 355 than with our 406 do to wheel spin off the corner GOOD LUCK I hope you are not racing camaro's they are hard to beat for stock suspention


Eric Dailey#1
Member
posted January 27, 2004 07:42 PM
3200lbs. metric i run the springs have to be in stock mounting spots. but my spring pocket on the right side can slide in 7" or one width. it rolls better mid turn but carries same weight on corner exit. lower bracket is hoseclamped for easy moving. 250 and200lbs springs. real high banked track 22'elev from top to bottom 3/8 mile it might not work on a flatter track.


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