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Author Topic:   Gen 2 Camaro Front Suspention Questions
JDF Motorsports
Member
posted November 28, 2003 04:12 PM
79 and up camaro, big car etc have a larger outer brg... I would suggest scoring some of them. the smaller brg is very small.

is it a race car allready or are you building it??

you cant get the leafs at the right angle unless you drop the front mount or raise the rear mount 3 inches.. I drop the front 2 raise the rear one. this puts the front down at the exact same ht as the front clip.

when I ran stock mount shocks I fount that if you cut out the top mount hole and move it a inch or so it prevents bending the front shocks all the time, left front was the worst. they would bend in a week. I moved it out on the left I believe.



JDF Motorsports
Member
posted November 29, 2003 11:33 AM
66jj-you got me thinking aboout the front of the leaf springs...What does lowering the front mount do -besides raising the ride height? My thinking is this-if the fronts were RAISED the rear end would try to "RUN UNDER" the car, generating more rear traction. If they were LOWERED wouldn't it have far less mechanical leverage?
Honest-I am not trying to be any kind of a smart **** -please take a minute to clear this up for me. Relocating the fronts of the leaf spring mounts is on the list of things to do this winter. As of now I have the Hypercoil Parabolics in the stock location. 225l 200r I wish they weren't so high-I'd like to experiment a little with the rates.


66jj
Member
posted November 30, 2003 09:02 AM
Eljojo,

your theory on moving them up works for solid links like a 3 link. that is not how leafs work. a solid link pushes the car like your thinking, but leafs dont.


leafs wrap up under acceleration. they need to be at a certain angle in order to wrap properly.

the front eye should be 9.5 lower than the rear eye. this should put the angle about correct.

if you adjust using mulitple holes you should be doing it on both ends so the leafs stay at the same angle. on dirt we should run as little lowering block as possible.


Just for your info,
when you move only one end of the leafs you gain half what you move in ride ht.thats why I moved my front down 2 and rear is going up one, that will leave me about stock but now at the correct angle.

If anything I like the leafs to have more difference in height than less.

theres info on leaf mounting on landrums site.

Im going to run parabolics also, I have ran them on pavement and they are really rated softer than a multi, so Im planning to start with 225 on both.

*********
how much rear percent do you run,and whats your total wt, how old are your parabolics. wondering if mine will work out, I dont think with these leafs as much rear wt will be needed because they are so soft?


36 Race Team
Member
posted December 01, 2003 05:10 PM
guys at one track here are allowed composites.

go with them if you can, would be my advice if your losing arch on steel springs.

they are only 4.5 inch arch so that may present a little work on your mounts etc.

Im not allowed so Im going to run parabolics.



JDF Motorsports
Member
posted December 02, 2003 07:24 PM
I dont really know which way I moved them, what I did was remove the whole a arm mt, and cut off the shock part. then when I put the a arm mount back on, I pt the shock in there at ride ht, and centered it, then welded the shock mount piece back in separately.

I guess the way I would do it now would be cut the shock mt hole large say 1.5-2 inches then position the shock, so that it angles in at 5-7 degrees and back 15-20 degrees. I would put the shock in there with no spring so I could put my angle finder on the side of the shock. These angles are what you need to be within in order for the shock to follow the plane of the lower a arm.

Once I found the angle I would make a plate, of 1/8 thick to weld over the large hole, of course with the small hole needed for the top shock mount. Now in the right spot.

ok heres another maybe easier way.

A shortcut would be to put some white grease on the top stud of the shock, bolt the bottom on, no spring again and find the right angles then extend it to touch the clip above, the grease will mark where you need your hole, then you can possibly just drill a new one if its that far off, you may still need to cut a larger hole and plate it though.

If I lost you anywhere just ask. The angles are important, even in stock mt rules they can be fixed. I guarantee you most arent though.