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Author Topic:   brake help
Whitelightning
Member
posted November 28, 2003 02:59 PM
Drove a freinds car in hot laps to help diagnose a problem and I dont know where to start. His car is very simular to mine its a 1987 MonteCarlo and the bars that come tru the fire wall form a V right where the master cylinder would be therfore limiting you to a short master cylinder. The only thing that will fit there is a single stage unit which seemed to work fine on my car and others I hear at track. But we put in a single stage and ran a t off the front like everyone else and bleed the brakes. The problem is it wont stop worth a darn. The pedal is hard but the faster you go the harder it seems but it just wont stop the car it barly slow the car down under race conditions. He has to use stock pedals. Whats could it be. Would it get better with a racing master cylinder? It would still be single stage so I dont know what todobut it has no brakes. Also the m\c on it now is a stock with the round screw on lid?


racer17j
Member
posted November 28, 2003 03:38 PM
ever try a master off a s-10


Whitelightning
Member
posted November 28, 2003 03:46 PM
are they small?


Eljojo
Member
posted November 28, 2003 05:16 PM
If you used the stock pedals off a power brake system, you mau be losing the mechanical advantage right where the rod mounts to the pedal. On the power set up, that rod mounts further away from the pivot point the pedal hangs from. There may actually be a hole further up on the pedal to mount that rod to, or you may have to drill one yourself. Another thing you might look at is the flex lines going to the front calipers. They may be in bad shape and colapsing inside themselves under pressure. I had this happen on a van I owned and the darn thing would pull real hard to the right every time I hit the brakes. I had to replace the left flex hose to cure the problem. Maybe both hoses went bad or got junk inside them. Disconnect them at the banjo fitting from the calipers and mash the brakes and check how much flow you're getting.


wermm
Member
posted November 28, 2003 07:35 PM
sounds like some sort of restriction in the line or m/c to me


Whitelightning
Member
posted November 29, 2003 10:12 AM
does anyone here run a single stage master , how did you run you lines. We got the single stage unit that is round, It had a hole in the very front and then an hole above it that points up at a angle and it was pluged so I removed the plug and ran the back line to that stock junction block on the frame rail and ran the front lines to the whole in the front is this what everyone else does


66jj
Member
posted November 29, 2003 10:47 AM
isnt the hole above at a angle a bleeder port??

you should remove the proportioning valve, it will mess you up when bleeding the brakes. you need to reset it each time etc.

you can remove the insides if dont want to buy a couple fittings.



Whitelightning
Member
posted November 29, 2003 12:37 PM
You may be right about the top one being a bleeder. Would it work that way. I drove it a round the yard and was sliding the front tire so why it dont going faster is beyond me. I wonder what would happen if I put a 10 lb residual valve for the rear. Also about the junction block on the frame rail what do you do to hollow it out or do you remove it. I did not know u had to reset it.


66jj
Member
posted November 29, 2003 01:17 PM
Most people who race could find a great deal of useable info in a standard chiltons manual, thats where they tell you how to bleed, reset the valve etc, thats how I learned it, lol.

I would remove it and get fittings. but you can gut it.

the residual valves are for keeping line pressure at the calipers when your master cyl is lower than the calipers. Gravity takes care of it if the master cyl is higher.

I would not use a single stage master no matter what personally. I would lower it, or go to a home made reverse mount using a stock master if needed.

Or I would cut out the bars in the hoop and move them. That is what I have done for a friend in the past when I saw his single stage.

If you have a leak in any line with a single stage youll have no brakes very fast,once the master is drained etc.

Im not bagging on you guys just cautioning you. It seems a lot easier to move a bar now then to build a new car. Though I realize not everyone cuts and moves bars etc on their own.



Whitelightning
Member
posted November 30, 2003 11:42 AM
I have been thinking maybe I will just use the one line and then split to font and rear and do with out the block on frame and see if it helps any and just put the bleeder back in top of master


bobaluuu
Member
posted December 01, 2003 09:10 PM
Listen to 66 please. Danger Danger with one bowl, to yourself and others racing you.
Cut the pipe and move it I can't think of a good reason for one there anyway

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