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Author Topic:   Metric Ride Heights??
vosevichs
Member
posted August 09, 2003 12:06 PM
What are the ride heights for a metric frame?

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Scott Vosevich
RDBoyz Racing

[This message has been edited by vosevichs (edited August 10, 2003).]

wrenchjockey
Member
posted August 09, 2003 12:21 PM
Good luck with that one, I haven't been able to get anyone at the track or here to answer that. I suspect I could get the combination to the safe at Fort Knox easier than getting ride heights from anyone. I wish you luck in your quest, sir knight.


rico 08
Member
posted August 09, 2003 08:21 PM
You want the right rear to be the highest,so say a 8"rr,7 3/4 rf,7 3/4 lr,7 1/2 lf,that's a little on the low side but very close to average.Higher for more sidebite,lower for less.Your quest has ended sir gallahad.


Eljojo
Member
posted August 10, 2003 01:37 AM
I'm a nut about ride heights and making chassis work. I've posted several times about ride heights. Rico 08 gave you some numbers, which I feel sure work for him, but will they work for you? Are you using the same springs, tires, and ball joints that he is? If so...take his numbers and run with them. But if not you may want to take the time to set your car up. It's a little time consuming, but will be worth every bit of the effort!
Start with the car full of fuel and put your weight in the drivers seat. Set your air pressures. Now take a look at your front lower a frames. You'll want the lower ball joint on the left side just a tick higher than the connection to the frame. Move to the right side and set it (the lower a-arm) level. measure the frame heights at the kick out. The right should be ABOUT an inch higher than the left. Now set your left rear at or above the measurement that you took on your right front. Jack the right side up an inch more than that.
Now! Look at the lower rear trailing arms. If they are running downhill to the front what do you think will happen when you get into the throttle? The car will squat in the rear. If the rear end squats, Sir Issac Newton had the dumb idea that every action creates an equal and opposite reaction. So if the back of the car is pushed down, which direction do you think the tires are wanting to go......UP! Loss of traction. The lower rear trailing arms MUST be angled upwards to lift the weight of the car--forcing the rear wheels down into the dirt.
Pinion angle aint jack! It's how you get that pinion angle! If your lower arms are lengthened, you will produce downward pinion angle. But as you lengthen the lower arm, the angle of the arm reduces (due to the lengthening of the arc it makes under accleration) So either you raise the ride height or shorten the top arm.(which changes the arc that it makes under acceleration.)
Under a best case scenario you would want the lower arms to push the body up and the upper arms to pull the body up.
Do the work nessecary to achieve ride heights in relation to lower front a arms and the four links you have in the rear. You'll soon see that by relocating the mounting points and altering the arm lengths that your car will not have drastic caster and camber changes in the front suspension, and will have more forward bite in the rear suspension.
Don't you wish I'd have said 6, 7, 8, and 9?
Good luck! Don't become discouraged, good set ups take work!


vosevichs
Member
posted August 10, 2003 07:10 PM
Actually Yes. But no. Your explanation was better. One guy told me some numbers and the rear end sat too low. The trailing arms pointed down. The car would of Squated. We have a good understanding of how the car is supposed to work. Was wondering if there was a set number. We'll just have to tweak until were right.

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Scott Vosevich
RDBoyz Racing

[This message has been edited by vosevichs (edited August 10, 2003).]

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