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Author Topic:   Brake bias
ss38k
Member
posted June 01, 2003 06:34 PM
i bought a proportioning valve at speedway. can anyone tell me were it would work the best. right front or front brakes or back brakes. and why it dose thanks


BK19
Member
posted June 01, 2003 06:54 PM
more rear brakes will bring the back end around and front will make it push


ss38k
Member
posted June 01, 2003 08:22 PM
ok bk19 so i would want to mount it. to the front brakes .to make the back brakes come on first wright. thanks

a freind of my says he likes his on the right front.but his class allows him to shut off the right front.says it realy turns left.

rico 08
Member
posted June 01, 2003 08:24 PM
I've always seen them plumbed into the rear brake line.


ss38k
Member
posted June 01, 2003 08:29 PM
see rico that is why i am confused because everyone says something different...HELPPPPPPPPPP thanks


jammin
Administrator
posted June 01, 2003 08:45 PM
4 wheel brakes usually give you a smoother transition on entry than 3 wheel brakes. The big problem I have seen with 4 wheel brakes on street stock or pure stock cars is, the cars are usually 3200 or 3400 lbs and the stock brakes with larger tires aren't enough to get the rear around since you can't run aftermarket brakes in most cases. The 3 wheel brakes make the car set up much easier, but can get you into trouble faster as well, because your weights on the car must be right to keep the car from going too far. Shut the right front brake off and the car will set up in the turns much easier, just pay attention to your weights as to keep the setup under control on entry. Heck, in my early days of street stock racing several years back, we used to take the whole right front caliper and everything off and blocked the line on the right front...not saying that was the best thing to do, but it helped turn the car at that time. Hope this helps a little.

jammin


ss38k
Member
posted June 01, 2003 08:59 PM
Thanks jammin i was thinking of putting it on the right front and only shuting it off half way or so. are right front brake has to stop the wheel if they check it .my car is 3400# works well just cant get rear to come around as easy as i would like. thank you


towmandan
Member
posted June 02, 2003 10:31 AM
There are times on a dry slick track that just a tap on the pedal with 3 wheel brakes is to much....I know what your saying you can set your car up pretty tight and run very hard on a tacky track with 3 wheel brakes but Im gonna say it would be best to leave the rear alone and be able to adjust how much right front you want to work...Good luck....Towman


c21
Member
posted June 02, 2003 11:20 AM
If the track wants the right front to stop when inspected like you said then grind some grooves into the brake pads to reduce the amount of surface area and it will stop when checked but will be close to 3-wheel brakes on the track.


ss38k
Member
posted June 02, 2003 08:33 PM
thank you c21 .i do have the brass one .is it junk. can i use it on the right front. and play with it there.or should i install it on the front. to give me a little more on the back. what would you do .you seem to know what i have.Thanks alot for the info.c21 i have had this thing for two months.just have been afraid to try it because.i won the first points nite and been having pretty good runs now in second in points. see my reason lol.thanks again thanks bk19 and you to towman..o one more big problem i can't have it in the cockpit were i can reach it .under the hood is fine, bummer

[This message has been edited by ss38k (edited June 02, 2003).]

[This message has been edited by ss38k (edited June 02, 2003).]

c21
Member
posted June 03, 2003 11:11 AM
THANKS C21 and Jammin for the info.i think i better send this one back .and get one of the other one's.and hook it up to the RF.guy's i am starting to think i should go to dual master cylinders a 3/4 and 1" on the back ..or am i going the wrong way if i do that.thank's maybe i will just drive in harder so i can get on my way to the front.lord know's i don't start up there much.lol

[This message has been edited by ss38k (edited June 03, 2003).]

[This message has been edited by ss38k (edited June 03, 2003).]

c21
Member
posted June 04, 2003 10:22 AM
quote:
Originally posted by ss38k:
i am starting to think i should go to dual master cylinders a 3/4 and 1" on the back ..or am i going the wrong way if i do that

larger masters convert a given amount of brake pedal force into lower pressure (at higher volume) as compared to a smaller master ..... (conversly, larger wheel cylinders and/or calipers require more volume (but at a lower pressure) to do the same amount of work as a smaller wheel wheel cylinder and/or caliper).

Anytime this gets confusing, just remember that pressure at the piston surface (whether it be in the master or the caliper) gets converted to/from force (at the pedal or to the brake pad) ...at an amount directly proportional to its surface area (expressed in pounds per square inch (PSI) .... PSI = force devided by piston surface area ..and then at the caliper .... Force = PSI x piston surface area).
and ... volume is always inversly proportional to pressure (piston travel x surface area = volume displaced ).


what does that mean to you? ..... if you like a higher (than 50%) rear brake bias then you should put the 1" to the front. If you can get away with a balance bar with those duals, I'd do it.

c21


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