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Author Topic:   turning in circles (handlind problem)
pushmyfactorystock
Member
posted May 19, 2003 01:08 PM
I run a factory stock on a 3/8 mile dirt track, the car is always good in the heat race, a little tight but not too tight. My thinking is the track ALWAYS goes dry slick so the track should loosen it up right? But in the main the car always gets tighter and starts too PUSH really bad even if the track is really black, we put a stiffer shock on the right rear (its adjustable) and a stiffer spring in the right front (car was rolling over hard on the right front and pushing which was burning the right front off)now the car won't break the tires loose when the track goes dry slick and the motor won't run strong for a full race I was running second and at half way and the temp climbed to 230 and the motor started dragging finished 6th our thinking is because of the push its working too hard. I am going to put a new radiator cap on to try and keep the motor cool(running 250 at the half way point this past weekend but only 220 in the heat when the track was tacky). Softening the shock on the right rear should loosen the car up right. What could be causing all this? its a 77 Camaro with a 355. #1200 spring on right front. Run as much stagger as possible and a big weight on the left rear and a smaller weight on the right rear too help rear %. Leaf springs.


oba51
Member
posted May 19, 2003 04:22 PM
my thinking is you can put some of that weight on the right side and that would help negate the push. That is what I would do with my mini anywho. Later BObby


dirtracer7
Member
posted May 19, 2003 08:03 PM
Whats your caster and camber set at. I think I'd be getting that temp down a bit before you fry your motor.


rico 08
Member
posted May 19, 2003 09:36 PM
camaro's are terrible to push,look closely at the right front camber gain(positive)


c21
Member
posted May 20, 2003 09:08 AM
ok fellas... i did some work to the motor radiator went to Steves shop and had it cleaned out and checked. we put new plugs in and gapped them differently, we changed the timing from about 18 degrees advance to something that seemed to work better at high RPMs (i ain't telling cuz it worked GOOD enough that everybody around here thinks i put a new horse in) we also jacked the right front air pressure up and put a big right front tire on the RF for more stagger (I ran RF 26 RR 23 LR 22 LF 19 air pressures) in the heat we had them up about 5 lbs higher than that per tire and they were spinning too much. The car ran good, 5th in the heat (had to tag...long story) and started 9th in the main finished 3rd it got up to 230 but i think thats cuz she was working hard, the car was awesome getting in, a little pushy (front end was trying to go straight up the track) in the center, then good when i set it to come out, but tight off again (had to turn the wheel to the left coming off, then i could feel the right rear hook up. So what could i do to help it? less rear weight? right or left side? softening the right rear shock won't fly its already rolling over HARD.


pushmyfactorystock
Member
posted May 27, 2003 10:54 PM
oh yeah almost forgot, put a little more camber and took about 1/2 inch of toe out (its toed out about 1/8 of an inch now.

thanks for the help in advance,

is there any way you can soften/stiffen up leaf springs???? people (trying to help) keep telling me to put a stiffer spring on the right rear but thats all they tell me.

c21 whats static cross?

thanks guys see ya

stevewm
Member
posted May 28, 2003 08:24 AM
Dear pushmyfactorystock.

I dont know if your rules allow a locked up distributor?If so I would lock it up by removing the distributor and the cap rotor button ect...and open the arms as far as they go and by removing the small springs you can tack weld the arms so that they are open as far as they go, but be sure they are level and after tack welding the arms in the distributor make sure they are tacked good.

Then where the vacum advanced canister is the rod that runs from it into the distributor you can advance it as far as it will go as if the vacum has pulled the rod up into the cainister you can tack weld the rod to the plate on the bottom that has the two small screws in.The distributor is permenantly advanced then.

I would run a MSD Hei High energy module,part # 121-8364 and MSD coil part # 121-8225 you can get from Jegs high performance mail order http://www.jegs.com or call them 1-800-345-4545.

If you run a locked out disributor run the timing from 34-38 degrees.The performance of a locked up distributor puts the vacum advanced to shame faster responce and easy throttle control.

Just a thought.
Steve.


c21
Member
posted May 28, 2003 11:56 AM
quote:
Originally posted by pushmyfactorystock:
oh yeah almost forgot, put a little more camber and took about 1/2 inch of toe out (its toed out about 1/8 of an inch now.

thanks for the help in advance,

is there any way you can soften/stiffen up leaf springs???? people (trying to help) keep telling me to put a stiffer spring on the right rear but thats all they tell me.

c21 whats static cross?

thanks guys see ya


static cross is what most people refer to a crossweight, I used the term static so as not to confuse it with dynamic (dynamic cross is what static cross becomes when outside forces cause the car to pitch and/or roll)..... static cross is what you see on the scales (when you compare the sum of your RF and LR to that of your LF and RR) .....


if your car is tight everywhere you may need LESS static cross (crossweight)....

a smaller RF tire, a thicker lowering block in the LR, a shim in the LF spring or a larger LF tire might be in order (you could also experiment with more rear stagger).

c21

[This message has been edited by c21 (edited May 28, 2003).]

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