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Author Topic:   brakes
DMA Racing
Member
posted April 09, 2003 09:17 PM
ok, some people plug the right front,or use a brake valve,what if you cut the brake pads down on the right side, would you have a little less brake to help turn the car? anybody ever done this, how did it work out? thanks


dreamcatcher
Member
posted April 09, 2003 10:19 PM
this wont work because it will have the same presure, the only thing this will do is move the piston out further. if it comes out to far it will blow the seal inside and you wont have any brakes and if it hit the exhaust it will catch fire. the only ways to do it is to put the valve on it or just get rid of it. hope this help



Dixon
Member
posted April 09, 2003 10:35 PM
DMA,

I like the way you're thinking, but this won't work. Cutting down the brake pad will only slightly increase the amount of time it takes for the brake to engage, forcing you to push the pedal in a little further. The pressure between the two brakes will quickly equalize, eliminating the desired effect. You may feel some slight pull to the left, but it would only be when you initially depress the pedal, then it would straighten out.
You also need to be careful that the piston inside the caliper doesn't have to travel too far. You could risk tearing up the seals and having no brakes at all!
If you really want to have control over how much your brakes steer you need to have a balance adjuster. This way you can change how much bias you have between the calipers, and do so on the fly. You may find that in some instances you need more than others. Day Motorsports has all kinds of different models, with prices ranging from $25-$75.

Dixon

Dixon
Member
posted April 09, 2003 10:38 PM
Dreamcatcher,

Sorry for basically restating what you said, I guess you posted while I was writing. But you know what they say...great minds...something, something.

Dixon

crew42
Member
posted April 10, 2003 12:50 AM
You can use a router and cut down only the inside of the pad to decrease the surface and it will cut down on the braking force that the rf brake has

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2002 H.O.T. Street Stock Champion
M&R Racing


RC Racing
Member
posted April 10, 2003 08:03 AM
Wondering if this would work: install the brake line for the RF, but do NOT install the brake caliper. Put a cap on the end of the line. Only install the caliper when the track goes dry slick and you want 4 brakes.

Advantages: (1) eliminate need for brake shutoff valve (2) reduce un-sprung weight
Disadvantage (?): have to bleed brakes every time you install RF caliper

Sound plausible to y’all? Also, do you think the cap (Aeroquip ***** on) would hold up to the pressure?

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istock59
Member
posted April 10, 2003 09:39 AM
I do it just like crew42. Drill a series of 1/2" holes in the RF brake pads. Reduce the surface area by about 1/2, and thus reduce the effectiveness of the brake on that corner.


Racer0
Member
posted April 10, 2003 10:15 AM
thanks everybody, i cut a set down today, going to try it this weekend,i used crew42's way. i have great brakes.just trying to get the car to turn a little better, don't like the idea of three wheel brakes.


dreamcatcher
Member
posted April 10, 2003 04:12 PM
no problem, great minds think alike . i like that. i had never thought of the way crew 42 said. i would listen to him the car is very fast and very well set up. good luck. street stock c17 charlie norris



outlawstock17
Member
posted April 10, 2003 06:50 PM
there was a topic a while back that suggested using a "line lock" solenoid plumbed into the RF brake line and wired through the brake light switch and then through a toggle switch. you can control whether or not you have 3 or 4 wheel brakes from the drivers seat with the flip of a switch. technically it's not illegal, even if your track requires 4 wheel brakes. one of those gray areas, lol.


DMA Racing
Member
posted April 10, 2003 07:11 PM
just talked to a latemodel friend,he said some of them are useing a smaller caliper on the right front,must be nice to use all that aftermarket stuff, LOL


bobaluuu
Member
posted April 10, 2003 09:17 PM
[ I think, if you cut 1/3 of the pads off the right side(just nip both sides on both pads) that you would gain the effect desired
and still maintain the integrity of the pad. While routing the inside is the same effect, I would be concerned with the structural capability of the pad under duress. Also an additional pair of full sized pads in the tool box would quickly restore full braking where desired. I would also explore ways to get your car to turn without compromising yours and others safety

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Light it up, Baby!


Eljojo
Member
posted April 10, 2003 09:46 PM
Right on Babaluuu! Get two cars together in front of you , both spun out, one in the middle of the track drifting up, one in the middle drifting down. Do you think you'll have time to think "oh! I have three wheel brakes I'd better go up the track and step on the brake pedal so that when the car automaticly turns left I can drive thru that hole that will be opening up in the middle? Yeah Right!
Earlier this year I bought an electric line shut off valve....decided not to use it and make my ride turn without it. Glad I did. I'd sell that dadgone thing to the first guy with a twenty dollar bill!


crew42
Member
posted April 10, 2003 09:52 PM
Thanks for the compliment Charlie. I just wish we could get up there with you to see if we had anything for you or not. We just cant seem to get up there to you. I think we are fast enough to stay up its just that mainm element to racing that we are missing (LUCK). If we do well Fri. night we will probably try it again this week. Good luck to you ( and maybe us too)!

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2002 H.O.T. Street Stock Champion
M&R Racing


madmodshoe
Member
posted April 10, 2003 10:18 PM
I shouldn't be giving away my secrets here, but i will on this one. Use a set of metallic pads on the lf and a set of organic cheapies on the rf. You will have bias under normal racing conditions , but will also have full braking power under severe braking conditions. If any of dont think that there is difference between the metallics and the organics, try 10 laps on metallics then switch to the organics. just dont drive it in as deep the second time out!


SLEEPY GOMEZ
Member
posted April 11, 2003 12:34 AM
US Brake has a metric caliper which has a larger than stock bore. This is a stock GM casting that is bored out. It gives 20% more braking. Use one of these on the left front for a bias toward 3 wheels. If you are not allowed any adjusting or proportioning devices use these calipers everwhere but the right front.

Be careful with shut off valves on the right front. Before it is shut off the piston must be retracted manually. If there is any drag, there is heat. The heat will expand the brake fluid and drag or clamp the brake the right front. So you can start a race on three but once switched to four it must stay that way for the rest of the race. SLEEPY

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