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Author Topic:   distributor
Whitelightning
Member
posted March 09, 2003 05:38 PM
I have been running my distributor in my 350 with the soft springs that come in a curve kit. I left the stock curves in because it seems like the new ones did not fit right. I have a plug over the vacum hole that comes out of the advance. It has seemed to do fine but I was just curious if I should leave the vacum pluged or if I should hook it to the carb? What should I do?


racinrich1
Member
posted March 09, 2003 05:48 PM
Vacuum advance is for street driving...It is good for smooth, SLOW advancement of timing..
In a racecar, total advance is important...Too much will fry an engine...Not enough will have you down on power...I have seen weight/spring combinations that continue to advance over 5,000 rpm....It can be leathal if you overadvance at high rpm...
Rich


racer17j
Member
posted March 09, 2003 06:52 PM
go to your local gm dealership and get a block off plate for the advance then it is locked i believe they came on c-60 dump trucks. after you do that it's a good idea to either put the curve kit in it or weld it solid thats how i have mine. a couple things to rember if you weld it is to phase it and to get the motor turning over before you turn the power to the hei. do a search in the engine tech forum for welded advance or hie and you can find how to phase it


66jj
Member
posted March 09, 2003 08:00 PM
to lock out the vacummn advance just unscrew the vacumn unit, remove it and put the ***** right back in where the vacumn rod was attatched, you need to just flatten it a litte to get the ***** started into the distributor base where the advance was fastened.

its easy to see if you look at a hei distributor.

as for welding up the mechanical advance, its a iffy deal if you got a real race motor with compression, it will often detonate in the pits, at low rpms lugging it, cost me a few pistons years ago...

jj

Slam_Shifter
Member
posted March 09, 2003 09:55 PM
We run our distributor welded with no problems. And the compression is up there a little. Only thing we had to do was like in the above post, start rolling the motor over before you arm the ignition. We also run a bronze gear. Other than that it is smooth sailing. Takes alot of variables and points of failure out of your ignition if you're on a budget and can't afford the good stuff.

Slam_Shifter

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