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Author Topic:   nova rearend fix
elvislomas
Member
posted February 04, 2003 01:09 AM
Hello racing brethren. My problem is: last race of the year I got t-boned and put into the wall (I was leading for the first time ever) and knocked both right tires off the rims. Loaded the car with a wrecker and have just started to work on it for the spring season and have found the rear axel has moved forward of where it was before the wreck. I can tell as I painted the car myself and overspray is an understatement. I have never messed with leaf springs and need some help understanding what I am looking at and for. What holds the rear end square and parrallel?How should I fix this? Thanks for any help. f.n.g.


bill t fast
Member
posted February 04, 2003 07:42 AM
check your u bolts we had a nova that brushed the wall one nite and it kept walking the one side loose and then when it would move it would eat up the drive shaft replace all the hardware and if you don't want to buy new racing leafs i'd at least finds a different set off a junker or something puting it on a frame machine woulsn't hurt either to make 100% sure it's straight it's a good thing to know and for $45 bucks


c21
Member
posted February 04, 2003 11:32 AM
quote:
Originally posted by elvislomas:
Hello racing brethren. My problem is: last race of the year I got t-boned and put into the wall (I was leading for the first time ever) and knocked both right tires off the rims. Loaded the car with a wrecker and have just started to work on it for the spring season and have found the rear axel has moved forward of where it was before the wreck. I can tell as I painted the car myself and overspray is an understatement. I have never messed with leaf springs and need some help understanding what I am looking at and for. What holds the rear end square and parrallel?How should I fix this? Thanks for any help. f.n.g.

Assuming the problem is greater in scope than a sheared leafspring locating pin, you will want to measure the significant locations on your frame.

Here is the simplest accurate method that I could reccomend:


It would be ideal if you could put the car up on jack stands over a flat cement floor. Use the front subframe as a reference for level (since any previous frame height info you have gathered may be of little use now).

establish a center line: you can drop a plumb from all 4 lower A inner pivots and mark an "X" (use a consistant reference point, all for bolt ends for example). Draw 2 lines on the floor (black marker works well on top of the blue "long mask" tape), the first connecting both rear pivot points, and the other connecting both the fronts. Find the center of each line, mark with an "X" then .... project a line through both of these X's all the way to the back of your car.


now you can drop a plumb line from all 4 of the rear pick-up points (front eyes and holes in frame for rear shackels). On a peice of long mask tape below ..... mark an "X" and write down the verticle demension.

now you can determine the squareness of the rear frame at the only places that it are really relevant, the suspension pick-up points.

by measuring how far away from center and the front of the car your rear pick up points are you can determine what if any repairs are required (use one of the previously drawn front lines as a reference, or the ball joint zerc fittings).

It is useful to measure an un-bent car to verify the factory spacing between the 2 leafs (left and right).

... additionally, comparing the right to left (rear pick up point) verticle measurements you took will tell you if you need to move the frame up of down. The rear verticle locations are fixable, the fronts ... not as

When you are finished making your repairs, verify the distance from the front to rear pick-up points for each leaf is the same (If there was damage to the frame on both sides, you will have to compare this to a straight car.

c21



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