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Author Topic:   pan hard and upper link questions and help
posted December 10, 2002 12:33 PM
Our rules FINALLY changed, to allow coil cars to switch to a basic 3 link w/panhard..
The rules, from what I hear are no pinion mounts for the panhard bars, must use solid links. NO torque arms, pull bars or bird cages. Now im not sure if the panhard has to be mounted on the back side of the diff or just not to the pinion.
track is dry slick most of the time
Car weighs 3100# has 50% rear, 53% left. we run tall tires 90"-92" hossiers.
I had been running 200LR 150RR getting 4" of travel. With the use of the panhard bar I wont need that soft of a spring to get the desired amount of roll, I know I will be able to get it by lowering the bar(at least thats the way Im understanding this from all the posts I read in the archives)

Basic plans so far:
Im planning on leaving my stock lower on the RR 22" long(poor mans spring rod), using a solid link on the LR, moving my LR spring forward.

1. What length of upper 3rd link should I use. I have room for up to 36" if needed.
2. Where should I mount my shocks?
3. Should I start with my panhard level and inline with axle center line or lower becuase of the taller tires? recomended height above ground?
4. Has anyone made an upper link with rubber bushings, instead of the biscuits or springs to get around the no pullbar rule?
5. How long should I make the LR lower arm? I have some 22" ones or should I go shorter for more roll steer?
6. would it be worth the effort to build a custom mount in order to get the panhard bar in front of the axle tube? Or just deal with it on the back side.
7. what size material for the tubes and rod ends are best for the lowers and panhard bars.

sorry so long!!

posted December 18, 2002 05:32 PM
Hey Wide, hows it going?
Great! glad to hear it.

For the benifit of those as lost as I was when I posted this. Ive been rapidly education myslef on this suspension design. And realizing that stupid rules are an arse ache to work with!!

Heres what ive learned.
1. upper length of arm. longer for larger tracks. less change over travel.
2. Beings this is still a "clamped" rear, shocks on the back is fine.
3. height and length for panhard bar: longer bars react slower, It was recomended to me to start with a longer bar, and go shorter when I ran out of adjustments on it. The height to mount it, well not an exact answer for this. Due to many reasons. ride heights, CG height, springs, weight%. I will be starting it at the centerline of the axle, and a slight pitch of @1".
4. The rubber links on the upper bar instead of the heims is a great idea stupid, thats why HOWE makes them, for tracks that have the "no pullbar or biscuits rule"!! But they wear out quick!
5. lower Arm length, shorter = faster angular changes which effects the amount of roll steer. After reading the afco tech pages on lower arms, 17" is common, but Wide your car is so far from standard, you go ahead and run those longer arms, and see what happens.
6. Im going to wait for the rules to be released before I make a decision.
7. Rod ends are very important, DONT cheap out on these, buy good quality rod ends, and lubricate them often.

Thanks for my help!

posted December 18, 2002 08:04 PM
Good answer,,,,,anyone else have any input?

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