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Author Topic:   Suggestions
Woody44
Member
posted October 28, 2002 03:57 AM
Looking into purchasing a Dirt Works car.
Looking at a 4-link on LR and swingarm/solid link on RR.
Pros and cons of this?
Alternative rear suspension setups?
What does "corrected front end" mean?



uforacing51
Member
posted October 28, 2002 11:32 AM
Sounds good, the pro would be, you have a mod, the con is, is it the one you want and are you going to have to make a bunch of changes right away. Z link is supposed to work good on dry slick. the corrected front end might mean its been repaired or replaced.


Woody44
Member
posted October 28, 2002 12:15 PM

Sorry if I wasn't clear, but I was thinking about buying a new Dirt Works car. That's why i was wondering about what rear suspensions to get put on it. I've also seen alotta short 3 links on these Dirt Works cars.
I just want a rearend that will hookup but not do a wheely. Had a harris car that did that, I hated trying to pass with it.

We've had a Z-link on our Jet Mod for the last year and couldn't get any forward bite.
Put a 12" afco swingarm on LR with a bunch of angle and got rid of Z-link. Improved car a ton.

I asked about the corrected front end, because on the DW website, a bunch of the cars say they have the corrected front end like it was an update or something?


MiPinto6
Member
posted October 28, 2002 04:08 PM
I believe they mean they have changed the front geometry from stock to make it better for racing. They do things to get better camber gain #s and correct steering angles.


Wauge28
Member
posted October 28, 2002 07:21 PM
I have owned 4 DW. I loved the car...until I tried the 4 bar. I struggled with it until I switched back to the 3 link. People will tell you that the 4 bar and Z-link are the only way to go fast...not true. Yes they are fast at times but for my money, you can not be fast consistantly like on a 3 link. I am seeing more and more drivers go back to the 3 link as time wears on.

As far as the corrected front end, it is supposed to be anti-dive or some crud. All I know is that it is worth the charge because you can use the 3 piece uppers and they are much more adjustable and more durable.

Woody44
Member
posted October 28, 2002 08:00 PM
Have to agree about 3-link. It's probably alot easier to mess with. But that's why I was thinking about a 4-Link, shouldn't I be able to put a 3-link togther with lower 4-link bracket if I wanted to change it? Or what about clamping the LR? What exactly does that mean? I hear about all the time but never taken the time to find out. What about panhard bar? Was convinced to have J-bar, but been reading about people braking them. What's happening to cause that?

Would there be a disadvantage or something different about a DW chassis bought through Speedway Motors? Anyone ever bought a Jet Or DW car from them?

[This message has been edited by Woody44 (edited October 28, 2002).]

Wauge28
Member
posted October 28, 2002 11:31 PM
If you order a DW as a 4 bar, they build the frame to take the very short lower links. If you order a uni-mount, they sell you "plugs" that convert the 3 link to a 4 bar. If you think you might change it, order the uni-mount option. You can then do the 3 link, 4 bar, or Z-link. The only one you cant do is the leafs.

Clamping is when you have a floated bird cage and you mount the COE to a clamp-on mount (3 link mount). Lots of bite but very violent if there is any moisture in the track.

DW will have you run the short panard bar from the left side of the chassis to the left side of the pinion; mounted to the j-bar mount but flipped. Again, this gives great forward bite but any moisture or and bumps make it really twitchy.

I ran the J-bar and had no complaints. I tried them all and it by far was the best. I am driving a Smiley's this year and I mounted a 13" panard behind the housing. It is welded on the back of the rearend in the same location that the J-bar would be on the front.

DW makes an awesome car. I changed only because I wrecked mine and I got this Smiley's...um, for free...

Woody44
Member
posted October 29, 2002 03:21 AM
Thats exactly why we have this Jet car. Had a 95 or 96 harris(got into a bout with turn 1 wall at lakeside) with afco 12" swing arms on both sides and was the best car i've had so far. We tried that short panhard bar on the left side of the pinion on it. I have no idea how we didn't tear the rearend out of the car. Car was alright just wanted to twist the car in half. Had most consistant laps with long(24-26 inches) straight panahard bar behind the rearend.
What do you mean by COE? Should I know or am i just missing something?


autoshop
Member
posted October 29, 2002 09:27 AM
Ok Woody 1st on your z link you had if you had no foward bite what are you running for a pull bar spring? # wise? 2nd what track are you running long turns sweeping, or short & tight? 3rd the corrected front end means the older tubeular upper arms are cut off and then they put new brackets for swedge tubes and hiem joints. This lets you get more camber on the fronts to keep the tire patch larger in the turns. last is if you are interested in a 4-link and z-link they are fast!! and repeatable. But look at Pierce cars 1st. He is the one that started this setup and he knows more about it than anyone else. And better than anything else is the cars and cheaper than a DW. Let me know if you want somemore info. or pricing help. I can tell you a lot about either setup, and give you some more pros and cons. ltr spde


Woody44
Member
posted October 30, 2002 12:10 AM
Have a rubber bushing bar on top. Actually though, when I put the solid link 12" swing arm on LR car went forward. Only got to run it twice, so who knows how consistant it is.
As far as the track goes, Fridays we run at Lakeside( long sweeping turned semi-banked 1/2 mile) and at CMS on saturdays ( they say it's a 1/3, but thats on a good day, decent banking, really tight corners.) Lakeside is where we had the most trouble.
Pierce cars, heard of, never seen. Basicly the same as DW?


Wauge28
Member
posted October 30, 2002 02:47 PM
SPDE

Cheaper????? Are you sure?

Woody,

No, they are not like a DW. The run well and look great but I guess I was under the impression they were spendy???

I really think most cars are well build and fast. The key in buying a car is get one that the manufacture supports! Tech support is PRICELESS. If you can't set the car up, you will go nowhere. I know first hand the DW is great in the department. Harris is good, so far, Smileys has been great. Try calling for tech support before buying a chassis. Don't tell them you are shopping, call them with set up questions as if you already own the car. Call a couple or 3 times and see how they treat you...you will be very surprised!
Good luck


Woody44
Member
posted October 30, 2002 04:09 PM
I've heard good and bad about Dirt works customer service, but Andy Claiborn has always been perfectly nice at the race track so you'd assume the same about the rest of the DW guys. I've been looking at cars for the last 4 or 5 months and it seems that I always come back to Dirt Works. From what i've seen around here is that they seem to be fast everywhere on any surface, not just a few particular places. Thanks for all the input, hopefully everything goes forward as I hope.


spde
Member
posted October 30, 2002 04:56 PM
OK I help out a little if you go to Dw and look at the prices they post, they are not cheap. As for tech help I'm not sure you will get the same help as their house cars that we run against in mid mo. like Clark,Bonejr,Tuner,Merrit,Folk,Cutshaw. I mean I could go on. Also call up DW and ask them to build you want you want. It doesn't happen like that. They build what they want, when they want. I know they build a good car and I can get you a multi-link with all the options for about 3100. I can get you a Pierce car for about 2800. I'll have 1 frame and 1 roller in the middle of next month if you want to come look at them. I agree with Wauge28 tech help is very important!! SO dont rush into any thing. If you want to look at things go to www.pierceracecars.com I also would go away from running the rubber biscuits and put about 900 on for Lakeside and maybe a 1200 for CMS. Also shocks really matter on a z-link set up. Call me in you need some more help #'s 573-216-4836. ltr spde


Woody44
Member
posted October 30, 2002 05:33 PM
I think i'm gonna go with a 3-link on both sides. It's the simplest, and seems to be most consistant. Thanks again to everyone.


2nd2none
Member
posted October 30, 2002 06:49 PM
if you order a dirtworks you might want to hurry up to get it in time to be ready for next season. I put mine on order about a month and a half ago, pick it up in about 6 weeks, and they already had around 15 on back order.


Woody44
Member
posted October 30, 2002 08:21 PM
Hopefully they aren't lying, but speedway motors says they have chassis in stock. Just talked to them today.


CUSTOMPERFORMANCE
Member
posted October 30, 2002 09:48 PM
As a former Harris Racing employee i have built a few cars which have been succesful in the last few years. I am willing to build anything anyway anyone wants to any stage of completition. Also i have done Harris repairs
as well as repairs to other makes of modifieds and types of cars. Feel free to look at my website at www.customperformance.org for some of my recent work. I have a limited time only special thru november email me for info. Rich Webster


2nd2none
Member
posted October 31, 2002 05:46 PM
have you called dirtworks?? i paid $2030 for the bare frame 2 link not including all the extra's


spde
Member
posted October 31, 2002 10:47 PM
The bare frame DW is cheap but and the extra stuff in like :
imca door panel-$75.00
corrected front-$150.00
cross member lightened/cut -$50.00
bolt on bumber-$75.00
window net -$35.00
There are more options but this matches apples to apples.
This many not seem like much but that bare car went from $2030.00 to $2415.00 I can just deliver more of a car for the same price. Just voicing my opinion. By the way Pierce also makes a 2 link car. ltr guys let me know if I can help ya Woody.


Woody44
Member
posted November 01, 2002 12:43 AM
Thanks everyone, called DW today, definately going to be a wait on that. But
Speedway sales 2- link chassis w/ door plate, corrected front end, bolt on bumpers $2280. But all those other options, like cutting cross memeber, can easily be done at home in my shop. We've always built our own bodies and interior, that usually save a few hundred bucks.


CUSTOMPERFORMANCE
Member
posted November 01, 2002 01:48 AM
For around $2,000 here is what you would get from me. Your stub of choice, fully welded with all mounts and brackets 3 link rear bolt on bumpers and rub bars floor pans door plate corrected front. The only thing i charge extra for is for rear suspension brackets other than the 3 link which is std. Things like the notched crossmember,Imca door plate, steel floor pan,corrected front, and bolt on front bumpers is included in the $2,000 price. Check out my website at www.customperformance.org for pics of my work.


Woody44
Member
posted November 01, 2002 02:26 AM
Custom, how much does one your cars weigh, race ready, without driver?


CUSTOMPERFORMANCE
Member
posted November 01, 2002 09:14 PM
The average weight is around 2250 race ready without driver.


Tom Asmus
Member
posted November 02, 2002 12:30 AM
Hey Woody as one of Rich drivers, I am very happy with the chassis Rich built me this year! Well built and safe! The chassis I had Rich build for me was a different than most! But Rich has helped me out in big ways in setup and advice! And we have made this new design that I run currently, very FAST!!!! A big plus Rich is open to what you the driver want!