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Author Topic:   Short 2 link help!
EMOD1
Member
posted August 26, 2002 09:00 AM
Actually, I have exactly the same problem, almost. Did not have that problem till I set the car up to what the chassis man wanted me to try. I have tons of forward bite, which is great. Just can't drive it cause the only thing I can see going down the straightaway is the right front tire, which I normally CAN'T see. Plus, like you are having, the car pushes hard in the corner. I was bottoming out my right side shocks on front and rear. That I think was part of the problem with pushing.
We tried changing a few things for this week with his advise. If that doesn't work, then will go back to my original setup, ride heights, etc... cause at least I could drive it, and was somewhat fast. Just trying to get alittle faster.
Here is what I originally started with:
cross is around 52.6% w/out driver
left is 55% w/out driver
rear is 55% w/out driver
20gal fuel
LF-700, 6"
RF-800, 6.5"
LR-225, 5.5"
RR-175, 5.75"

This is where I am now for this week:
cross is around 52.5% w/out driver
left side is 53% w/out driver
rear % is 55%
LF-700, 5 3/8"
RF-800, 5.5"
LR-225, 5.5"
RR-200, 5 3/8

I also run an asphalt panhard bar with infinite adjustability.

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RACERX


EMOD1
Member
posted August 27, 2002 12:41 PM
EMOD, if you move that LR behind, put a 225 or 250# spring in it and move the RR infront with same spring. I run my 3link with LR behind and got 250# LR and 175# RR springs. You didnt say what your front springs are but i run 650# both LF & RF with the RF getting all the shock except about 1/4"

another thing you can try is 2 foot it getting in. It'll help from the rearend dropping out of it like u said. It took me awile to get used to doing this and was always having to think about doin it but now its the way i drive naturally.

[This message has been edited by 2nd2none (edited August 27, 2002).]

EMOD1
Member
posted August 28, 2002 01:36 PM
Soften up both front springs, my car is throttle tight when the track is tacky if i dont take any angle out of the panhard bar. I got a white line for neutral, if track is tacky or rubbered up real bad i'll lower it down 1/2" - 3/4", if its dry slick i'll raise it up the same. I always scale the car out with it set at the white line and only move it on the frame side. On rearend side its about 1" below pinion centerline. On frame side its at 7 1/2" up to white line, it is quite abit of angle but I like the way it feels and works. The 250# LR behind also tightens it up on the gas but i got 650# springs in both RF & LF, i started the whole setup with 650# LF, 750# RF, 225# LR, 175# RR, and the car felt pretty good but i wanted it to drive off a little better, so i stiffened the LR spring up to 250#, doing this made it work the way i wanted it to but was throttle tight when the track was fast, so i started softening up the RF spring until it was as soft as it could get with out bottoming the shock out which ended up to be a 650# spring on the RF. All this with 40# of LR weight. Our track has hotlap sessions every wednesday evening so I had the luxury of doing all this testing during the week ~


EMOD1
Member
posted August 30, 2002 10:30 AM
Thanks for the info 2nd2none Emod1


KK17
Member
posted August 30, 2002 05:40 PM
I changed back to a long panhard bar because of the problems you had emod..actually my car was hiking so bad that it was pinning the underslung against both rear axle tubes and essentially locking my rear suspension solid until I got out of the gas...I changed back to my old long bar behind rearend and it quit doing that but I did lose a little forward bite but it drives alot better so I feel that it made the car faster even though it didn't seem like it...make any sense?