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Author Topic:   Hydralic clutch---need help???
posted May 04, 2002 03:45 PM
I'm guessing that you dont have any shims for the throwout bearing. You'll need to buy shims and shim out the TB. Be sure and not put too many shims in it or you'll burn up the clutch, also you can adjust the actual pedal I'd try this first.

posted May 04, 2002 08:30 PM
the distance from the throw-out to the fingers is tooooo far. that distance needs to be adjusted. If you feel this is adjusted coreectly then I will say you are useing a line from the master to the throw-out that has push on fittings.....this hose will expand when you push the pedal, instead of pushing out the bearing......YOU NEED TO USE A BRAIDED LINE FOR THE CLUTCH...Steel brake line out of the master cylinder then to a braided line........

posted May 05, 2002 08:05 AM
you can also use plastic brake line for the clutch, ive done that here for yrs, it works great and real easy to plumb too.

posted May 05, 2002 08:41 AM
I just installed mine this weekend and it sounds like you have a shim problem. I like to put 3/16" between the throwout bearing and the fingers of the diaphram. Be carefull
so that you don't actually pass the limit of disengagement and start pushing the diaphram too much, you will feel it in the pedal when it starts to go the other way. Had to pull the tranny out 3 times til we goy it where we wanted it.

Artie Perilloux

posted May 05, 2002 08:20 PM
I just had to put one in my car this weekend and what Stokin27 said sounds right. 3/16th should get you started. As for spacing with shims. I started with a low amount of shims then added hydralic cylinder spacers to make it right. Lot easier that way cause they just clamp on.
good luck with getting it going!!
Super 7w Racing

posted May 06, 2002 07:55 PM
Let me give you the whole story!!!! Most of Wheels47 comments are correct.....more importantly the pedal is bleeding off. If I hold the pedal in you can feel the clutch bleed off and after a few seconds will start moving forward. If I throw it out of gear and pump the pedal it comes right back. We cannot find any fluid leaks whats the story?

posted May 06, 2002 08:38 PM
I run a Bert now, but I had a similar problem when I ran this setup. How are you bleeding the lines? I was having trouble, but I was bleeding the line like I do brakes (Pump the pedal up then hold it, then open the bleeder).

At the track, I was trying again to bleed the clutch line. A top Late Model driver came over and gave me a hand, he said I was doing it wrong.

The way he did it was like this:

He put his finger over the end of the bleeder, then opened it (while keeping his finger on the bleeder so no air could get in), told me to push the pedal slowly to the floor 1 time. When the pedal reached the floor, he closed the bleeder, I let the pedal come up, and then we started over about 5-7 times.

Why my method didn't work, I don't know, but he fixed it. He obviously knew something I didn't, after that, I always did it that way, and I never had any trouble.

posted May 08, 2002 06:06 PM
The best remedy for all bleeding and brake problems I have found is an air bleeder. I picked one up on E-Bay for $200.00. If you have never used one, it is awsome. In 20 minutes I can bleed the whole car, including a Bert trans, (And you know how much of a pain those can be) not only does it bleed everything, but it completely replaces all of the fluid and tops them off to the correct level all at once. The best piece of equipment I have ever purchased, because I do 98% of the work on the car by myself. An absolute MUST HAVE TOOL. Also, brake fluids pick up moisture after time and should be replaced periodically, this tool takes all of the work out of that. I also agree you probably have a leak in your master cylinder.

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