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Author Topic:   multileaf forward bite
HIGH VOLTAGE
Member
posted February 28, 2002 09:23 PM
To gain more forward bite on multileaf rear suspension should i raise the front mounts up one hole?Any suggestions appreciated.


sdhnc29
Member
posted March 02, 2002 01:56 AM
Here's an old drag racing trick that work's on dirt , I used this back in the early 80's on our late model . I'm sure that many people know about this ! Take two old main leaf spring's , cut the front eye off just behind the eye . Then cut the spring in half about equal with the back of your lowering block . Disassemble your existing spring's , and install the cut down leaf against your main leaf , running forward toward the front mount . After this , reassemble your leafs back in the order they were in . What this will accomplish is added resistance to spring wrap on acceleration . Kind of like cheap ladder bar's . You might try it , and see if you like it . But this is old technology , and I have not run a leaf car forever . So there might be better trick's now . Leaf spring manufacturers want you to believe there spring's are magic , and you don't need to do anything to them . But I noticed a difference when I tried it years ago . Of course this was in California , running on stop and go , hooked up tracks . You can raise your front spring eye's and gain forward bite , but remember , it will change the rear roll center .

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Hendren Racing Engines
Rutherfordton , NC
(828)286-0780


HIGH VOLTAGE
Member
posted March 02, 2002 11:03 AM
quote:
Originally posted by sdhnc29:
Here's an old drag racing trick that work's on dirt , I used this back in the early 80's on our late model . I'm sure that many people know about this ! Take two old main leaf spring's , cut the front eye off just behind the eye . Then cut the spring in half about equal with the back of your lowering block . Disassemble your existing spring's , and install the cut down leaf against your main leaf , running forward toward the front mount . After this , reassemble your leafs back in the order they were in . What this will accomplish is added resistance to spring wrap on acceleration . Kind of like cheap ladder bar's . You might try it , and see if you like it . But this is old technology , and I have not run a leaf car forever . So there might be better trick's now . Leaf spring manufacturers want you to believe there spring's are magic , and you don't need to do anything to them . But I noticed a difference when I tried it years ago . Of course this was in California , running on stop and go , hooked up tracks . You can raise your front spring eye's and gain forward bite , but remember , it will change the rear roll center .



SD29 i've heard of this before but at that time we were running street stock and were'nt allowed to do that.Thank you had forgotten about this;will try raising mounts first then give this a try.Will let you know if helps.


modbob35a
Member
posted March 03, 2002 09:00 AM
sd29, setting up car now. do you need to set pinion angle before you add extra half leaf or after thanks bob


sdhnc29
Member
posted March 03, 2002 02:33 PM
The half leaf won't change your pinion angle . So you should be ok .


SCOOTER M40
Member
posted March 03, 2002 08:03 PM
Here are some things that I do to get leaf cars to go on dry slick tracks.I do like to run the front of the leaf higher on the l/r.
If you can, arch the l/r about 2 to 3"s more and leave the band off the rear of the spring .Also make sure the you have 5"s of shock extension on the l/r so when the car is laid over in the corner and you pick up the gas you still can get lift in the l/r tire .
You want to make the spring have more arch but you will also need to make the rear of it softer so the at ride hiehgt the spring almost looks flat in the car.Do this by moving the 2nd leaf down ahead 3"s and redrilling the center hole.Then turn the 3rd around 180 degrees and use the same center hole.Now pitch the short last spring away.
This will make the front of the spring stiff enuff to last and still make the spring soft enuff to work on slick tracks.
Also move the l/r shackle mount so that you have at least 40 degrees of angle (top forward)this will let the l/r tire stay on the ground on corner exit, if the car is to tight on heavy tracks or is 3 wheeling to hard stand it up to about 15 degrees.
On the r/r I would run a afco 31 the way it comes from them and run the shackle standing strait up and down on the r/r.
After all of this you will need to know that when you scale the car you will not run as much wedge or static l/r in the car as you have in the past becuse the car will build more l/r under gas.
I know that is alot to understand at one time , these are some of the things that I have found from building and racing 100s of leaf cars over the years.
P.S. the next step after doing all of this and seeing that you can learn to drive it,is to float the r/r spring or run a mono with a coil over there or both. then you will be on to something *S*
Hope this helps


WPP
Member
posted April 11, 2002 10:04 PM
how do you move the left rear shackle 40 degrees forward? also what leaf spring do you use on the left rear?


WPP
Member
posted April 11, 2002 10:05 PM
how do you move the left rear shackle 40 degrees forward? also what leaf spring do you use on the left rear?


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