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Author Topic:   HELP: TROUBLE WITH BRAKES
fridge
Member
posted January 08, 2002 09:41 PM
last season, i had a brake problem, i found my left rear caliper hanging after the top bolt broke, it was grinding the brake pad into my rotor, i put new pads on but the bracket on the birdcage was bent and i tried to bend it back in place we got it far enough to were it looked like it would work, we bled the brakes, but i went out and raced and lost my brakes pretty much completely, i had to pump the brakes so they would work just a little bit, in the pits i would push the brakes in, half way in they had a real rough spot i could feel in the pedal,

i am not sure what is wrong, i was thinking the brakes got real hot when the pad was grinding, so mayeb the fluid is bad, the brakes were steaming the weekend before i found the pad grinding into the rotor, thats how i found it

any help would be great


thanks,
jeremy


jonboy
Member
posted January 08, 2002 11:07 PM
You have experienced a problem I have seen from time to time on street cars with phenolic caliper pistons. When the caliper sticks or the bracket is bent (either one leaving the pad against the rotor) the brake fluid is superheated by the friction. This causes the brake fluid to boil and lose its hydralic properties. Flush the brake system and this should fix it as long as the caliper is okay and the bracket is in the right position (otherwise it will happen again). Also the brake pad must go flat against the rotor or the pedal will feel spongy or have excessive travel. Try leaving out the o-rings around the caliper pins in the caliper to free up the caliper. They may rattle a bit but they are less likely to seize under excessive heat. I also use non metalic brake pads on the rear (GM metric caliper D154 raybestos) as they come to working temp faster but they are more likely to fade if you ride them. They also transfer less heat into the caliper and therefore into the brake fluid. You better stick to semi-metalic on the front. Use a high-temp brake fluid such as the Wilwood brand. Stay away from the silicone fluids. Bleed it frequently. Hope this helps. Lets go racin.


fridge
Member
posted January 09, 2002 08:29 AM
thanks for the help, i will try doing what you said, hopefully it fixes the problem

thanks
jeremy


Chad
Member
posted January 10, 2002 01:53 PM
I also had lots of trouble with my brakes. I found my problem to be the caliper mount was not square to the rotor. Once I replaced with new mounts making sure they're square (by applying pedal pressure as I welded them to the axle tube) and put in new pads and calipers, it's a huge difference. The car rotates like it has three wheel brakes. I would also recommend using good brake pads. I use Brakeman pads on the rear, and Performance Friction on the fronts. The pads are very pricey, but well worth it when it comes to stopping and rotating the car. I also agree with taking the rubber o-rings out of the caliper. The caliper did rattle a bit, but no problems.