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Author Topic:   3 link setups the good and the bad
jklostermann
Member
posted November 07, 2001 06:53 PM
Going to a 3 link next season and don't know much about it, was wondering what people liked and did't like as they experiment with it. such as trailing arm angles, spring,...ect.


FS93
Member
posted November 07, 2001 09:44 PM
I run a 3 link and like it very much. of course it is the only thing I have ever had in a mod so I have nothing to compare to. I run 200lb springs on both sides in the rear. with the right spring behind the axle and left spring in front. Irun a long panhard bar, and pullbar is mounted down low on the frame br the DS loop. At all the tracks I have gone too, my car is always very close off the trailer. The only thing I ever really change is the angle of the panhard, and maybe flatten out the right lower arm if the track is real dry. Thats about it. Most fast cars around here run a three link. Seem to be nice and simple. Just my thoughts


powercar821111
Member
posted November 08, 2001 12:40 PM
I ran a coil/monoleaf system for the first year I ran Mod. I had no idea what to expect out of the car, so I didn't know any different. I could not figure out how to get through the corners, and wondered if it just wasn't meant to be (me in a Mod). I decided to build my own three-link system, and I soon found out that I as the driver wasn't the problem. Right out of the box with no experience with this suspension, It was fast and consistent, enough to win. This was the suspension that did wonders for me. And even though you may not hit it right the first time it will come around.


PEDDLER
Member
posted November 11, 2001 09:27 AM
Rear suspension I have found are like breakfast cereals. Everyone likes something different.

We, my friend and I, are changing from a Z-link to a 3 link (or modified 2 link) with a pull bar and long panhard bar for mearly the simplicity of the setup. An earlier post stated that the best is the one you understand, that is so correct.

If you run at several different tracks, then you can decide which works better on tacky,semi=dry, or dry. We run at only one and can usally be assured of tacky heats and dry slick features. Takes a lot of guess work out. Find a set for early and change to dry for later.

I'm not a rocket scientst when it comes to weekend racing and I sure as heck don't want to work my self to death changing everything but the paint color from heat to feature every week.

The Peddler

jammin
Administrator
posted November 11, 2001 07:24 PM
There are a lot of things you can do with a 3 link to make them work effectively in any situation. There are many things that can be done to manipulate the set ups that can help you make the cars work really well. You have to make them work hand in hand with the panhard/j-bar to be really effective. But overall, you can't go wrong in a modified with them.


jammin


PEDDLER
Member
posted November 12, 2001 07:52 PM
Thanks Jammin.
This is what I spent half a season explaining. I feel that a 3 link (or modified 2 link) works the best for the driver that enjoys racing on a weekly basis and is not the Kelly Shyrocks or Johnny Sattoffs of the world ( nothing wrong with these Dudes).
Simplicity and ease of maintainence means a heck of a lot to a driver that works 10hrs a day then comes home and works all night on his race car.

Thanks
The Peddler


Gene
Member
posted November 12, 2001 08:55 PM
I'm putting a V6 asphalt car together now, and its a SCP metric with a 3 link. What would you guys suggest as a starting point for the angle on the bars? The top link has 6" of adjustabilty, the lowers are about 3".