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Author Topic:   good and bad....need help.
MOD RACER#93
Member
posted June 17, 2001 02:19 PM
WHAT I DO IN THAT CASE IF I AM COMFORTABLEE WITH A CAR THAT IS DOING SAME AS YOURS IS , IS TO PUT A TALLER GEAR IN IT FOR THE TIMES THE TRACK IS GONNA BE SLICK, CUTS RPMS DOWN A BIT.


dirtracr
Member
posted June 17, 2001 11:05 PM
I have also experienced mixed results with the progressive spring pull bar. I think you will find that Dirtworks is recommending a biscut bar or a standard linear spring on the pull rod. Could Too hot a right rear indicate that your car is basically tight and you are making it loose with the throttle? With little spring travel on the right rear this what it sounds like. Have you tried lowering the panhard bar on the chassis or raising it on the 3rd member? Alittle higher roll center will allow the car to go ahead and roll over. I agree with custom performance, A higher gear will help slightly reduce wheel spin.


LITTLEMAN
Member
posted June 17, 2001 11:09 PM
First thing I'd do is get rid of the progressive try a straight rate,like a 600 to 700 in order for your set-up to gain forward bite the rearend must rotate so the left rear spring will lift the left side of the chassis gaining left rear weight and roll at the same time,even a soft bisquit bar would work,remember rotation of the rearend is the key.good luck let me know how its going.LITTLEMAN


wfoondirt
Member
posted June 18, 2001 09:28 AM
If your rr tire is that much hotter than the lr and by the sound of the wear pattern i would say that your already working the rr too hard and i don't want the car to roll more. Basically you just need to tighten exit., typically by adding rr lead or more cross. But without knowing your current setup i cant say for sure. I also agree with littleman on the torque link spring, the softer spring allows for axle rotation to add wedge under accel, if the tires are hooked up. Another thing that may help if possible move the torque link a few inches to the left of center. The biggest thing to driving a dry slick track is a light right foot, once you get the tires spinning its over, alot can be done with thottle linkages to help the driver be smooth on the throttle. As a sidenote to irace74, lowering the panhard bar overall reduces roll resistance not raising it.


start79
Member
posted June 18, 2001 10:36 AM
Ya'll need to get mod racer 93 fixed, I race at the same track and had the same problem. Cars are almost the same..The only notable exception would be that when I exited the turn mine was bad loose. I run the harris spring bar that is adjustable, I'm going to move it to the left and try again....


MOD RACER#93
Member
posted June 18, 2001 07:04 PM
I'd go for the 600 lb. watch travel also having the left rear trailing arm uphill helps promote bite and rollsteer so when you do get it to hook up better the rearend will turn in the center with more roll.The harder compound sounds like a good choice to me won't get as hot as fast and will last longer so it won't gain as much air from heat,so stagger will stay more consistant.also going up on right front spring by 50 lbs. might be something you should think about.


Racer64
Member
posted June 18, 2001 10:02 PM
I am having similar troubles. I have almost the exact same setup as you but I am now running the DW monte bar and helped me alot. I was running the spring link with the 600 lbs. spring and really didnt notice the difference like I did when I went to the rubber biscuit but like they say everyone drives different. Just adding my 2 cents.


spde
Member
posted July 04, 2001 01:12 AM
ok i got a question ? how much rear weight are you running? are you up about 60% or more? i think also if you have to much angle on the pan-bar it hurts your off corner speed because the weight transfers slower back to the left. we run a dry track also and just put a new spring combo in were the
lf 650 rf 600
lr 225 rr 175
this seemed to let the car role forever and then hooked it up fast coming off. this is just an opion so good luck


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