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Author Topic:   bump steer ?
posted May 13, 2001 10:36 PM
Could someone help me out on how to set bump on a modified? My car is built on a metric chassi with nova lowers and pinto spindles.How much bump on right and left? And is it worth the effort? Thanks for any help.

posted May 14, 2001 10:16 AM
I'm about to bump my new Shaw on a Chevelle frame with Pinto spindles. I didn't heat and bend the steering arms like some do because the rules state that you can't alter the stock parts. I've been told not to worry about bumping a dirt car but since I've got to lower the tie rods anyway (so they won't hit the frame) I thought I'd go for 0 (zero) bump or as close as I can get. Does anyone use bump stagger? Is that worth playing with?

Mod 78
posted May 14, 2001 02:14 PM
mod 78 is right but i go a little further .
before you bump it, set your ridee heights first. when they are set find the center of your lower ball joint pivot, the center of your lower control arm inner pivot, and have some one hold a piece of string and run it through the two pivots, while held tight use a angle finder and hold on it to find the angle of those two mounts. when this is found set your tie rod assemblys at the same angle. when you bump it it will be close to right on, works for me. richard

posted May 15, 2001 10:38 PM
Thanks guys. I hope Dodge Boy got his questions answered. I didn't mean to **** in on your post.

posted May 16, 2001 10:20 PM
The person who asked the first question about bump steer only stated a metric car, if that's a small metric you need to get as much of the bump steer corrected as possible.
If we are talking the full size metric they are okay from the get-go.........
Rather then bending the steering arm down on the spindle another way to accomplish the same thing is to run the 73-77 tie-rods with the heavy duty drag link.........this drag link is set up for the big inner tie-rods, then ream the spindle for the big outer tie-rod........just don't ream as deep....only enough to get a full nut on top.....this will lower the outer tie-rod......
Another thing to look at is getting the tie-rods the same length as the lower A's.....this is why soo many people run the IROC drag link........the holes for the tie-rods are about 2 inchs farther apartmaking the tie-rods shorter....this help get the tie-rod lower A frames closer together in length..........

[This message has been edited by awkwardjeff (edited May 17, 2001).]

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