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Author Topic:   four bar troubles
dirtracr
Member
posted May 01, 2001 08:02 PM
Have you scaled the car since you put the heads on? Your talking about 4 percentage points from what you had. How are you running the same percentages minus 100 pounds on the front?

jammin


dirtracr
Member
posted May 01, 2001 08:13 PM
I HAVE FOUND FROM MY OWN EXPIERIENCE THAT LEADING THE RIGHT REAR WHEEL IS JUST A CRUTCH FOR WHEN SOMETHING ELSE IS NOT RIGHT WITH THE CAR. I ALSO HAVE FOUND OUT THAT RUNNING ONLY 1/4-3/8 LEAD CAN LEAD TO A PUSH ON CERTAIN TRACK CONDITIONS. I RUN MY REAR SQUARE IN THE CAR MOST OF THE TIME AND WORK WITH OTHER CHASSIS THINGS LIKE SHOCKS, OFFSETS, STAGGER ETC


Wauge28
Member
posted May 02, 2001 10:12 AM
I switched to a DW-8 4 bar this year and ditched it after 4 races. I like the bite it got but after dumping a spring one race, snaping a u-joint becasue the drive line slamed into the trans from so much travel and taking out my tailshaft as well, I decided to throw in the towel and try a 2 link. But...here is what I learned

It sounds like you have just wat Dirtworks recommends as a starting point and when we tryed that, it had a HUGE throttle push in the middle of the turn...sound similar???

WE...dropped the bottom bars to the bottom hole or just flat. I use a Monty bar and had to raise it to the 3rd hole up. That alone may a big difference but the last night I found the problem...The panard bar. DW recommnds a 9 inch shorty and for me, it was way too extreme at an 8 inch drop!!! I flattened the bar and the car was finally drivable. If I was going to stick with the 4 bar, my next move would have been a 30 inch panard behind the rearend.

The pull bar might be an area to look at as well. Mine was too steep and the bite hit too hard, too early and caused an instant push when I got on the gas.

I changed every spring and shock you can imagine and noticed very little difference. The hardest thing for me was to stray from DW's setup. I finally started to listen to one of our local guru's and he was right.

Good Luck!

BILLY BOB
Member
posted May 02, 2001 01:49 PM
Usually a tight condition only in the middle will show up as a geometry deal with the RR. If you raise the chassis side of the lower bar, then it cause the rear to roll more toward the rear, which is exactly what a lot of late model drivers do. If you have the tack, this is something that can cure it. But by raising the lower bar on the chassis side, you will also enhance forward bite also. It will help somewhat. That is what I would look at....

my two cents.

jammin


dirtracr
Member
posted May 02, 2001 07:54 PM
The tire temperatures are telling you exactly what you want to know. I have had the same type situation happen on our mod when we didnt have enough wedge in the car. Also....when adding more wedge, sometimes, you allow the car to turn more freely because you take away sidebite when adding wedge. Just a thought.

jammin


BILLY BOB
Member
posted May 03, 2001 08:26 AM
How much traval in the rr and the lr? What size springs in the rear 13? What are they at ride height? I have learned a few things in the last few weeks that made me wonder!

[This message has been edited by dirtracer14 (edited June 25, 2001).]

dirtracr
Member
posted June 25, 2001 10:05 PM
Not looking for binding but looking at the preload of the spring at ride height i have found that by adding more preload without changing and ride height the car would be a tad loose in the middle back it off and the car would stick and drive right off, Just things that i have found with my car 6 link swing arm car.