Visit The Dirt Forum for More Information

Author Topic:   powerglide problems
HOTWIRE
Member
posted April 07, 2001 01:19 AM
I have one tranny like this....we havent had any problems like you have described....is the detent hooked up correctly inside? Did you guys build it?


HOTWIRE
Member
posted April 07, 2001 09:28 AM
well...you may want to look at the detent.....it sounds like it isnt opening or closing all the way....what we did on ours was took the pedal out.....put a softer spring on the detent and then actuated it by hand...this way, you know when it is in and out.....also..you might want to look at your band tightness....sounds like your low gear band could be a little tight also.. Did you burn the high gear clutches or the low gear band?


HOTWIRE
Member
posted April 07, 2001 10:20 AM
Yes.....there was a special linkage that you were supposed to install to get it to work correctly...did you get that in there?


jammin


KK17
Member
posted April 07, 2001 12:53 PM
Well...basically.If I were u, I would get someone locally where you live that builds trannies to go thru it with you once or twice. But the lowdown on the valvebody on the TCI unit is that the valvebody they sell is a unit that basically dumps the transmission's mainline pressure thru the detent plunger. This allows the freewheeling of the rear clutches and low band for first and reverse. Now...if you will go over to the other post on the powerglides...you will see more info on how to do it without this valvebody. Stock valvebody and stuff will work if you do it right, just have to do some minor modifications to the tranny. I hope this helps...as far as the parts and what they do....its really hard to explain it in writing....some of the parts are the same size and stuff...but I would seek a person locally in the tranny shop to help. I know this didnt help you much, but I think it is your best option.

jammin


dirttrackracer
Member
posted April 08, 2001 08:58 AM
I have been told that when you are idling the motor,you should always have the ball valve in closed position,but for two years I idled(breaking cams in,engine warm-up)with valve open.What is correct and why?


jammin
Administrator
posted April 08, 2001 10:53 AM
dirt....your talking about a bushore type tranny. The TCI setup doesnt run a valve...everthing is done internally through the valvebody......even though, they are all basically doing the same thing, which is controlling the mainline pressure dump of reverse and low....thats the task to accomplish no matter how you do it.


bbracer17
Member
posted April 08, 2001 09:34 PM
Are you guys breaking cases also? I've spent lots of time making sure my driveshat was correct. I made extra long dowels and studed my block so I could make sure it was mounted well. Ive ran 2 racers and broke 2 glides. My old cast iron Saginaw is looking real good right now.


HOTWIRE
Member
posted April 08, 2001 10:22 PM
If the trans is allowed to "hang" on the back of the block it will take all of the abuse. It is best to "cradle" the back of the trans by running two rods from your midplate to a piece of tubing bolted to the crossmember mount, and thread the rods on each end and then snug them up. This will allow the rear of the trans move with the front. What happens is the rear of the case will flex and then it breaks. Know of several guys that run this and it stopped there problem.


HOTWIRE
Member
posted April 09, 2001 07:05 PM
I'm not using a rear mount and I have about 2 inches of yoke showing on my driveshaft. I'm not breaking tailshafts, one week the bell housing broke and the next it broke the case about 3 inches from where the tail shaft bolts. I'm going to run my three speed a couple races then I'll try it again.


ufb
Member
posted April 09, 2001 09:31 PM
we use to run pgs .if you are braking the cases you need to run a rear trans mount.if you donnt you will brake cases.the same for alum 4 sp trans. the cast cases are stongher them the others so you donnt need a mount on that 3 sp. when i made my mount i used a stock rubber mount bolted to a 1x1 tube ,make the 1x1 tube so you can bolt it to the chassis make changing trans easer. IT IS TO BAD I M C A DONNT LET YOU RUN BERTS THAY COST LESS AND DONNT BRAKE!!!!


HOTWIRE
Member
posted April 09, 2001 09:36 PM
A QUARTER MASTER CLUTCH PRO 3 DISC $831.50 ,HOWE THROWOUT BEARING 102.50, MELEOD STEEL BELL 199.95 AND DO YOU HAVE A CLUTCH PEDAL ASY IN THE CAR?TRANS DONNT KNOW ABOUT PRICE. ALL THESE PRICES ARE FROM LEFTHANDER CHASSIS IN IL. WHY CANNT I M C A SEE THAT THERE RULES COST MORE THEN A BERT? ADDING THAT UPTO 1133.95 NO TRANS OR PEDLE ASY. THAT IS WHY I DONNT RUN I M C A !!!!


Mod 78
Member
posted April 10, 2001 08:57 AM
Anyone ever check the weight of one of those speedway light weight 3 speeds? For the $$$ not sure if it would be worth it!You can pick up stock one all day long for under $100.


KK17
Member
posted April 12, 2001 06:20 PM
Neat forum! I've built many glides in the last 3yrs.I got my info from a major converter rebuilder and it works great.
Low- 1/8" hole in servo supply tube.
Rev. - 3 .087" holes in the 3 dimples on
reverse piston.
Adjust band to suit. (3 3/4- 4 turns)
There are other methods too,But this works
fine. Note:trans must be disassembled
to drill rev. piston.
Basic trans skills help.

------------------


BILLY BOB
Member
posted April 26, 2001 10:51 AM
I have been running the powerglides since 94 and have had only two problems, both human error, not the trannies problem.
Some things you need to check.

1.The spring going from lower bellhousing flange to the detent lever should have 1/16" gap between coils, 1/8" at most. Too much you will over stretch the spring, too little it will not pull the detent lever back too full close.

2.Mounting slave cylinder to detent lever, you must have 1" of travel at detent lever when clutch pedal is depressed. When putting in the clevis pin or bolt you should have slight pressure against the detent lever but not enough too open it. If there is too much pressure against the lever it will open the dump valve slightly and do the same thing as slipping a clutch, which will burn up the clutch pack. ( To me this sounds like your problem but you need to check it out ).

3.Do you run a cooler, if not, PUT ONE ON!! They say the torque convertor generates all the heat, on the oval track trannies without a convertor they will still generate heat. USE A COOLER. The cooler it is, the longer it will last.

4.Highly recommend synthetic fluid.

5.With the pan off there is a metel tube inside the tranny to the right side, this tube can crack and lose fluid pressure.
( If you do not have full pressure on the clutch pack for an extended amount of time you can burn up the clutches ).

The lurching forward is normal on a tranny with a direct drive coupler, no problem there.

Hope this helps you, GOOD LUCK


racermay
Member
posted June 21, 2001 11:29 PM
This may not be your problem, but with a TCI if you dump the clutch in reverse, it will burn the tranny everytime. Just be careful when you are backing up. The line pressure is so low in reverse that if you dump the clutch, the forward clutches burn up. Just a suggestion. Maybe it will help.


fanofdirt
Member
posted June 22, 2001 10:18 AM
Actually the pressure in reverse with that valve body is 140-170 psi. To make reverse softer use the stock wave plate and only install 2 frictions. The forward clutches and band won't burn up if reverse does because they are completely different clutch packs.