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Author Topic:   4-link??
posted February 25, 2001 09:46 PM
A 4 link is good if you have a lot of time to mess with the thing. Remember the more bars you have the more chance of something going ape-$hit while your out on the track. But I know a lot of guys around here that run the on their cars (UMP). Myself, I'm a leaf man!

posted February 27, 2001 06:52 PM
I'd have to agree with the earlier post, having said that it's good if you got a lot of time to mess with it. I built one last winter, using the recommended design parameters posted on the Afco website, and ran it last season using thier set-up suggtestions. What I found was that when the car was set up right it was wicked fast, but if I was off just a little bit, I was out in left field.
As the season progressed I became much more consistent and ran closer to the front a lot more often, but after having run nearly 40 shows on it I don't think I'd be really confident in it for at least another season. There are just so many things to learn. Changing one mount only 1/2 inch has such a profound effect on the big picture that one could just be out to lunch without having any idea why for another 2 or 3 weeks ....And I never even started messing with the brake floaters.
Three nights a week and a 4 man crew would be, as far as I'm concerned, the only way to really do this set-up justice. The amount of adjustment needed from one track to another or even just from a heat to a feature was just too much for my son and I to handle all summer. We had some nights that made it all seem worthwhile, but more often than not we came home after what we called "learning experiences".
If you've got the time and energy I'd say go for'll be fast sooner or later, but if you want to ever sit down and watch a race once in a while I might think about something a little less complex.

Good Luck,

posted March 01, 2001 10:23 PM
The Joe Carr mod on the suspension page is a 4-bar. The arm lengths and the angles are different than the Afco tech article. Remember this is a modified not a late model.
Joe has used the 4-bar for many years. We ran over 10 tracks last year and only moved the right upper bar a few times. The car likes 0 or rev stagger and hooks hard with 550-600 hp!


posted March 02, 2001 04:20 PM
I havn't seen a Dirt Works 4-bar but my experience with our car is when the car rolls into the corner the birdcages index away from the LR and into the RR causing the car to loosen up on corner entry which should allow you to keep it on the bottom.
The car has a long panhard bar at a very steep angle to plant the RR.
We run a lite RR spring (175-200) and 225 LR.
As the car comes back on to the LR it hooks hard


posted March 06, 2001 05:19 PM

We run a 4 bar on our GRT.
After running a 2 link (3 link whatever you want to call it) for 7 years the 4 bar was a new experience.
One of the first things I was told from GRT and a late model driver I know was that, once you get the bars set to where the car is comfortable don't mess with it.
The car has also hooked hard on the dry tracks and also been real smooth in transition when the track is tacky.
The biggest adjusment we make every weekend is the pre-load on the fifth spring.

To me the 4 bar with a fifth arm feels a lot smoother than the 2 link with a pullbar

posted March 06, 2001 08:11 PM
The birdcages on the Joe Carr are steel and slip on the floater tubes and we have retainer rings welded on each side.
The brakes are not floated. You can see the rear suspension at


dirt racer
posted March 06, 2001 08:56 PM
I can't explain the specifics of what it does when you move the LR spring behind the rearend, but I can tell you that we tried it and it seemed to help loosen the car on entry and gave the car more forward bite coming off.

posted March 08, 2001 01:32 AM
It all depends on if your birdcages are floating and what angles you have your links set at. If your birdcages are floating, which they probably are, as the car rolls into the turn, due to the angle of the links, the LR will index into the spring thus loading that spring if it is in back of the rearend. The RR will index away from the spring thus unloading the spring. I run both in the rear so I can drive anywhere on the track. If I go in the turn low, the car will turn. If I go in high, as soon as I get back on the gas, it loads the left rear. I would suggest this set-up unless you have the left rear bird-cage clamped. My 2 cents. Brad

posted March 11, 2001 06:12 PM
Thanks for the help.

[This message has been edited by Mod57 (edited March 11, 2001).]