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Author Topic:   engine and parts findings..........
posted November 27, 2002 11:43 AM
Where would a beginning racer best spend his money, other than safety equipment. I won't sacrifice anything for safety. I run a ford street stock, and have a 351W block that we're getting ready to tear down. Any suggestions for you vets out there?


posted November 27, 2002 12:57 PM
Send me an email for info. I have raced Fords for about 10 yrs and can help you with what to spend money on first for the engine. or

posted November 27, 2002 01:46 PM
what are your engine rules?

posted November 27, 2002 02:53 PM
The thing i was told when i started out is that most rookies spend all their money on an engine and neglect to spend any money on supension parts. So you have a fast car that can't handle and you tear up alot of things. So i would suggest that you spend some money on good shocks and springs and use these guys on this forum to help you get the care setup correctly. You will find out that this forum is your best friend.

posted November 27, 2002 04:07 PM
go to If you order any ford parts they are the cheapest Atleast for my four cylinder and the v 8 stuff did not look that bad either. But they have already told you what you need to do first before you get all the motor in the world. Go get your feet wet and figure the car out. Bobby

[This message has been edited by b4racing (edited November 27, 2002).]

posted December 01, 2002 05:13 PM is where the full list of rules are.

a.) Engine make must match body make: i.e., Ford to Ford, GM to GM, etc.
b.) Engine must remain in stock position, solid motor mounts may be used.
c.) Cast iron intake manifolds only.
d.) Factory O.E.M. fuel pumps only.
e.) Factory O.E.M. wet sump oil pumps only.
f.) Factory O.E.M. distributors only.
g.) Factory O.E.M. 2 barrel carburetors or Holley 500 2 barrel carburetors only. Bores are not to exceed 1 11/16". Choke horns may be removed, linkage may be altered, springs may be changed, jets may be changed, and one spacer under carburetor up to 2" will be allowed.
h.) Racing tube type exhaust headers are allowed.
i.) Factory O.E.M. ignition components only except coil, plug wires, and plugs.
j.) Factory O.E.M. type water pump must be used and any other coolant system
components can be after-market or modified to suit your needs
k.)Valve covers may be modified or after-market valve covers may be used.
l.)If you do not see anything you want to do covered in a thru k above, don't do it.

posted December 01, 2002 07:29 PM
here's my recommendation:

347 stroker with 69-70 351w heads, 65-66 289 heads or late model gt-40 heads. if you use the 351w heads, remove the thermactor boss from the exhaust ports with a die grinder. factory duraspark distributor. black grommet ignition module. 36 degrees of timing all in by 2400 rpm. ford "lemans type" solid lifter cam. these cams are sold under a lot of different names like speedpro. about 250 dur. @ .050 and .535 lift. you'll need springs with about 130 lbs. on the seat and 325 lbs. open. early model 289-302 non-egr intake with a 2 inch open spacer, if you can find one. use the intake gaskets that block off the the exhaust crossover. holley 500 2 bbl.

get the chassis working and you'll be spankin' them chevrolets. a 302 block based engine will be 75+ lbs. lighter than a small block chevrolet.

posted December 01, 2002 10:04 PM
Whatever chassis or engine you decide to run, remember two things; spend your money on #1)Safety-can't beat it, can't live without it. #2)Suspension-no matter how much engine you have, one thing remains constant-getting it to the ground. Half the battle is in the turns.

posted December 01, 2002 11:41 PM
you can have all the power in the world but if you try to turn and the car doesn't well you'll need to spend even more money for a new front stub,tires,radiator and body parts. myself i have more money in shocks and springs then i do my long block. now i'm not saying a good motor is not a good thing to have i know if i would have had a better one this year i would have won a few more heat races and a couple features but in the long run you will be better off getting it handling where you like it then give her some more ponies after that

posted December 02, 2002 08:13 AM
while i do agree with tilley88 and racer17j, they forgot to mention that a good engine will DRAMATICALLY change the handling. you can have the best handling car on the track and put a hot engine in it and it handles like crap or vice verse. start with a hot engine that runs like a watch and then work on getting the car to compliment the engine. engine first, handling second.

don't take this out of context....put the hot engine in a car that has new racing springs and new racing shocks attached to a stiff chassis with good bushings/ball joints/tie rod ends. then tweak the chassis from there.

posted December 02, 2002 08:27 AM
forgot to add......i'm assuming that you're not even thinking about stepping into a racecar without the proper safety equipment. you're NEVER wasting your money on safety equipment.

posted December 02, 2002 10:40 AM

Not a chance! Safety is my first and foremost issue to deal with. I will just buy all of that equipment near the last as I don't need it yet. But no, I will not scrimp on the safety aspect of racing, I just want the best bang for my buck ya know? thanks!


posted December 03, 2002 07:36 AM
Just make sure you double check things before you hit the track and end up leaving a trail of parts behind you. I have seen new cars come to the track I run on and be back on the trailer before they even get to the heat race.So keep your head on think about what your doing in the garage and on the track. Don't try to drive past you or your cars capability and end up in the wall on the trailer and done for the night

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