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Author Topic:   need some Ford help
c21
Member
posted September 30, 2002 10:21 AM
there is an aftermarket tubular upper/lower kit available that uses coil overs. a rear steer rack and pinion is available too. this stuff is very expensive.

pinto spindles are a little shorter and will bolt up, but they are front steer and that messes up the ackerman if you're thinking of flipping the spindles around and using a rear steer set-up. if you try to use the pinto spindles with a rear steer set-up, that first corner is going to be real ugly. every corner after that will be ugly too.

granada/monarch/maverick/comet disk brake spindles are the way to go if you're car isn't equipped with disk brakes. you're going to have to manually steer it unless you want to go with the factory power assist. the power assist is weak, in the way of headers and i wouldn't recommend it. the stud that connects the power assist to the center link is prone to coming out in a racing environment. if it comes out, about the only thing the steering wheel will be good for is to HANG ONTO!

read the street stock tech topic titled "1971 mustang". it may be of use to you. good luck, i'm always pullin' for the ford guy!

c21
Member
posted September 30, 2002 02:44 PM
the granada spindle is a bolt on with the correct 5 on 4.5". it has a single piston floating caliper. a granada spindle/brakes are about the same weight as the stock mustang only it's easier and cheaper to find. the granada upper and lower control arms will work too. you can shim the LF upper control arm to get the camber where you want it if the lower control arm cam bolt won't give you enough. i've always lengthened the RF lower control arm to get the camber correct on that side.

i never used a tubular upper with this front suspension so i can't answer your 3rd question.

if you can handle manual steering with a v-8 on the nose and a quick steer, you're superman. i always had noodle arms by the end of the feature without a quickener especially on a heavy track. a dry slick was do-able, but it was hard to "hustle" the car on a heavy track.

ford5
Member
posted September 30, 2002 05:05 PM
i would scrap the whole mustang under carriage and just use the sheet metal,build a good chassis out of a 80\up crown vic frame. you will have a better car in the long run and it will be easier and much more durable..............been there ,ford5


outlawstock17
Member
posted September 30, 2002 05:35 PM
i agree with you ford5. the guy was asking about the shock towered fords though and i was giving him my experiences with them. i don't use them any more either.


c21
Member
posted October 01, 2002 08:53 AM
Ford 5, considered using a chassis from a full frame ford, but dismissed the idea (assumed the full frame chassis' were longer than 108"). Is there a Ford full frame that is close to 108?

c21

c21
Member
posted October 01, 2002 08:59 AM
anyone mess around with smaller (lighter) calipers off of a Ford import (capri, escort, etc)? our rules allow any brake components used on any of the manufacturer's (ford's) cars?

We can use aftermarket rotors and hats, so am considering fab'ing a mount on a 70 mustang (drum type) spindle to accept some dinky ford import caliper. ..... any thoughts on this?

c21

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