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Author Topic:   How strick are your track rules on engines??
Dunbar
Member
posted September 27, 2002 08:20 AM
Down here the rules say no aluminum intake, no dual line carbs,no headers, no roller rockers. We have no cubic inch limit but I guess I'm a favor cause I run everything I named above. Do they let you run what you bring or do they make you change it before you can come back the next weekend? How fast you all going? I know thats a dumb question but down here we are running 1 second not even that slower than open wheel. Myself I built a 408 512 horsepower all illegal and I still got past inspection.I was just wondering how strick are they on you all with engine rules..


racer17j
Member
posted September 27, 2002 10:36 AM
we run imca hobby type rules 360 cid 9:1 comp stock 2 brl rochester on stock 2 brl intake and they don't tech very often but when they do the guy usually has to move up to the next class the next week. in the next class the stock cars are pretty much wide open only real rule is everything has to be cast and a 2 brl carb in that class baring he breaks or wrecks the same guy wins every week where in the 9;1 class there is about 10 guys that can win every nite


outlawstock17
Member
posted September 27, 2002 10:40 AM
our engine rules are WIDE open. alcohol or gasoline. 1 4 bbl. no aluminum heads. that's about it. easy to tech.

any cast iron head, any intake, roller cams, roller rockers, any cubic inches, any steel rods, porting, domed pistons......almost run whatcha brung. it takes well over 500HP to be in the hunt. we use asphalt take off tires and that helps even things up.......some. 500+ HP is a barrel of fun in an '89 mustang GT. yee haa! we're getting into the corner right around 100 mph on a medium banked 3/8's with long straights and tight corners. brakes...don't fail me now!

i wonder if i could get away with nitrous? a supercharger? hmmmm.........better check those brakes......again.

teamstertom
Member
posted September 27, 2002 05:14 PM
Not wanting to rain on anyones day,but this is what raises the cost of street stock or entry level stock car racing.

Rules have been design first with safety in mind,but also a factor of keeping costs down so an average guy can be able to compete on a even playing field.

You can take a set of engine rules and show them to 10 different people,and all 10 will agree that they differ from each other on how they see the rules.

I am not knocking anyones effort to do want they see fit,but beat your fellow racer on the track with the same rules that they also have to follow.

With the advanced design of electronic ignition systems you are starting to see wheel spin devices(traction controls) used in high horsepower bombers and street stocks.

You may not believe this,but wander over and look at the cars with big motors that are able to run up top with out hardly lifting and look at the ignition parts. If you see a MSD box.....a traction control device is somewhere in that line.

Rules are rules and they should be enforced.
The only person your cheating by running cheater motors is yourself. That may show up when your car is claimed,or when you have to move up into another class where now your a nobody because you haven't learned really how to get the job done by following the rules.


outlawstock17
Member
posted September 27, 2002 05:38 PM
i understand what you're saying teamstertom. the problem that you run up against in grassroots racing is that the tech guys don't want to put forth the effort that is required to police a stringent set of rules and you wind up with a lot of guys cheating. personally, i like our wide open rules.

the last bit of my post about the nitrous/supercharger was intended as a joke. they would never allow that. the promoter has the biggest equalizing tool out there and that's the racetrack itself. a dry slick track really equalizes any horsepower disparity and forces a guy to get his chassis right and drive with his brain and not his testicles.

we have a factory stock division for the guys who don't want to spend the bucks to make the big HP neccesary to run with the outlaw stocks. we started 24 cars in our outlaw "A" feature finale last friday night.

i completely built a FORD that is competitive in our outlaw stock division for $6500 including the 500+ HP engine. you can do it on a budget if you do all the work yourself and know when and where to buy parts. all it takes is a little resourcefulness.

racer17j
Member
posted September 27, 2002 06:13 PM
thats why i don't run modifieds because of the open motors. if you look at it in those classes most of them you would have to win every single nite for a whole year to even break even for the cost of your motor where with our 360 motors a guy can build a good motor for under 2000 and be able to keep in the black if you run up front consistanly. for example we had a big specail last week the guy that got 2nd made enough to get a good rotating assembly for next year. what is the biggest purse you guys run for outlaw just courious?


teamstertom
Member
posted September 27, 2002 06:30 PM
This summer I went to visit mom and dad who live in Alvin,Texas. At their local dirt track called Texas Thunder Speedway they have a class where it was like a outlaw street stock,and those cars with so many differnt combos ,produced big horsepower and ran super fast lap times. I thought the classs was super neat.
Then the street stock class wanted to be like the outlaws so bad,they all got caught in tech that nite,and not one car could pass tech out of about 25.
If you choose to run a street stock,run a street stock,but if you wish to push the bar higher and higher on the reading of the rules and what you can get away with,change classes.
I think it takes a good race operation to produce big horsepower at low costs. It can be done,but alot of work and research to get it done is by you,the racer.


outlawstock17
Member
posted September 27, 2002 06:53 PM
racer 17j, we race for $400 to win on a weekly basis and when we are the undercard for the sprint cars it's $450 to win. it's not a lot of money, but lets face it, we're not out there trying to make a living, we're out there to have fun and because we love it. i'm having a ball outrunning some of those guys that have more money in their drivetrain than i have in my whole car.

teamstertom, i do it alone. i have a friend that helps me in the pits every once in a while and i have other drivers/crews that will help with a flat or something. i build the chassis, body, trannies, rear ends, engines, groove the tires and set the car up on my own. it would be nice to show up at the track with my gear bag and drive someone elses car and not have to worry about fixing it, but there is a lot to be said for the satisfaction you get doing it on your own.

i'm not trying to toot my own horn because i'm not the fastest and i'm not the slowest, but i have a car capable of winning on any given night, i'm doing it for less that a lot of the guys that can't keep up with me and i'm doing it in a ford. everyone says that fords cost too much and that's a crock of you know what.

[This message has been edited by outlawstock17 (edited September 27, 2002).]

outlawstock17
Member
posted September 27, 2002 07:01 PM
oh yeah, i forgot to add, do you guys want to know some of my cost cutting techniques?


racing18
Member
posted September 27, 2002 08:27 PM
I do I also raci a ford or at least trying to finish it!


outlawstock17
Member
posted September 28, 2002 07:17 AM
okay, here goes.......i buy a lot of my parts in auctions.......i'm a sign contractor by trade so all the .040 aluminum i use is from used signs. you could probably get some freebies from your local sign shop if you'd just ask. you'll have to peel the vinyl off, or do like i do and put the stickers on the underside. the car i race now is an '89 mustang. i gave $150 for it in an "opportunity buy". opportunuity doesn't knock often, so when it does, you need to answer the door. sold the 4 banger for $100, A4LD trans. for $300, tail lights went for $95 on ebay, wiring harness went for $25 on ebay, master cyl. and brake booster went for $35 on ebay. the nose, headlights and hood went for $200 in the local paper. it had a 7.5" rearend with a 3.73 gear in it.....exactly what mini stock guys want. sold the rear end for $175 with some 5 lug axles and drums that i got out of a ranger truck at the pick-a-part for $40.

this gave me $700+ on the deal and i still had the bare shell to start building my racecar with. i swapped a holley electronic distributor i bought on ebay($60) for a 9" rear end and axles. i converted my front hubs to 5 lug with ranger rotors from the pick-a-part for $20 plus the cost of new mustang bearings and seals. if you can do all the fabrication, engine building, etc. yourself, you'll save a ton.

get to know someone with a salvage that has cars like the one you're racing. this will be helpful when you need parts or when you need his hollander book to find interchangeable parts. maybe he'll sponser you some parts. i could write a novel on all the dealing i've done to keep the cost down, but you get the picture.

don't skimp on the heads. the single most important part of the engine that makes power. another area that you don't want to skimp on is the fuel cell and any other safety related items like the seat and harness. you want to be back to race another day.

watch ebay for deals on parts that you need. another place is racersauction.com. DON'T BID ON ANYTHING THAT OUTLAWSTOCK17 IS BIDDING ON!!!! LOL!

another thing is don't get in a hurry to get the car prepared correctly. they'll still be racing when you finally get the car ready. you want to make sure that the car is put together right. it's your life on the line when you strap in.

i could go on and on about different ways to cut costs, but i'm saving all the good info, so when circle track calls me to write low buck tech articles, i'll have some good stuff left. LOL! that one was for you sleepy!

Arkie Dirt Racer
Member
posted September 29, 2002 07:16 PM
in our Hobby class rules say:

(copied straight from their website)

Any 2bbl car. 500CFM with throttle bore no bigger than 1 11/16, HOLLEYS OK.
Brake pedal assembly allowed; NO BRAKE ADJUSTER ALLOWED.
14. Cams must not pull less than 16 inches of vacuum at 1000 RPM

15. Must have cast iron manifolds, no headers.

Automatic (OEM) or standard transmission. No mini-clutches. Single disc clutch 10" minimum. NO ALUMINUM FLY WHEELS. (OEM PARTS ONLY)
MUST HAVE STOCK CAST IRON INTAKE. NO MORE THAN 1" CARB SPACER.
Stock rear ends, locked OK, 8" or 9" Ford rear ends may be used.
No roller rocker arms or roller cams.
2002 SEASON: 360 Cubic inch Rules.

----our tech guy usually does pretty routine checks. you probably won't get by very long cheating here.

------------------
"Dirt is for racing, asphault is for getting there"


glen73
Member
posted September 29, 2002 08:15 PM
our rules say,any working torque converter,wich i say,gotta love those bushore trannys,since all the techguy checks for is a valve by the driver,any flat yop piston,no aluminum,no after market heads,so ya know everybody runs double humps,***** in studs,guideplates,big valve spings okay,no more than 365 cid,and any type of carb,gas only,roller rockers are okay,most of us run the deman carbs,all the front runners run a bushore with a 10" dummy converter,its kinda a run what ya bring with a claim rule!!


alien
Member
posted October 03, 2002 08:06 PM
The rules for the track I race at are as follows.
1.can't exceed 190# of compression per cylinder.
2.Have to pull at least 12in. of vacume.
3.4412 or Q-jet.
4.You can run headers.
5.Manual or automatic tranny,no direct drive and no tripple disk allowed.
6.Have to run Hoosier 500's.
7.Heads have to be cast.
8.No claim rule


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