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Author Topic:   TORQUE CONVERTER
redneck racing
Member
posted March 18, 2002 01:20 PM
Who makes a good torque converter for dirt oval application?


TCI
Member
posted March 18, 2002 02:30 PM
What is the exact application? We offer a variety of converters for oval track applications that are lo stall and have the bearing setups inside to cut down on drag.


Scott

------------------
Scott Miller
TCI Automotive, LLC
662-224-8972 ext 332
scott@tciauto.com
www.tciauto.com


SLEEPY GOMEZ
Member
posted March 18, 2002 09:54 PM
quote:
Originally posted by redneck racing:
Who makes a good torque converter for dirt oval application?

I use an 8" converter from Mikes Transmissions in Calif. The 8" refers to the internal parts. It has stall speed characteristic close to stock. Mine weighs 22 pounds and works good in our I-Stock.
SLEEPY


Flatlander
Member
posted March 18, 2002 10:26 PM
In the JEGS or Summit Catalog i found a torque converter that is actually fake. It acts as a direct drive. This is for those classes that require a torque converter but lets some guys get "bend" the rules a little and get more power. Good luck. And i suggest taking a look


merlinmech
Member
posted March 30, 2002 08:09 AM
be carefull with those fake converters, they can spot those easy with an infared temp gun.


powerglides
Member
posted March 30, 2002 06:25 PM
they are empty and blocked off. fluid cant get in them. they stay cool.


Flatlander
Member
posted March 31, 2002 10:26 AM
I like the sand idea. Makes enough friction to heat it up. Thanks. I have run those fake converters, but to easy to catch...til now. Do not have a valve thou, all done inside the tranny. Just put it in gear and go. I'm going to try that sand. Let you know if it works.


WesternAuto17
Member
posted April 02, 2002 08:45 AM
So if you fill a fake converter full of sand and fluid, won't that add a friggin' buttload of rotating weight thereby eleiminating most of the reason for not having the torque converter? Also, how do you hide the clutch for the pump valve? Let alone, with a car that must have a converter, the stall of a real converter might help you get your rpm's up. Which would be good for an underpowered, overweight racecar (i.e. a street stock).

I'm just curious, I don't have rules against a coupler, so I got no converter at all. Its not a problem for me.

powerglides
Member
posted April 02, 2002 11:45 AM
'k What about using the lockup trannies with kevlar clutch in the converter? Flip the switch and your locked, flip it again and you pass tech. I have not tried this but have wondered if it would work say for 400hp and lower.


powerglides
Member
posted April 04, 2002 07:47 AM
ok, i have a street stock 3600 lbs 400+ horse motor. i run a glide in first gear. 182 ratio 342rear gears. 5200 rpm. will up the rears this year to 373 to get rpm up. got tci coupler and tranny set for the rod to throw it out to engage gears. plan on sticking same motor and tranny into my open wheel i just bought later this year. this set up will work but would the valve body that lets you just shift into gear and go be better? would like to go to that if possible. didnt want to try on a heavy car.


hesseracing
Member
posted April 05, 2002 12:43 AM
also when i put the coupler in it was to tight to move to check for play so we measured the play and went from there. the directions showed second to last grove for my application but we had to stick the ring in the last which says for ford only. could that be due to having a scat aftermarket crank? thanks for any answers


powerglides
Member
posted April 05, 2002 06:24 AM
powerglide its a tci coupler two piece. everything else is stock except the crank its a scat crank. 400 crank to make a 383. the tranny lined up great. stock guide pins and it went right in and its bolted up flat no motor plate. it went in very easy that might be the problem. nothing ever goes easy! we tried to lube the splines also and still couldnt move it back and forth. thanks for the help scott


powerglides
Member
posted April 06, 2002 12:10 AM
powerglide yes it was line bored. i talked with a guy at the track sat nite and he said that there souldnt be a problem as long as i have the proper spacing which i do. he said that the shaft being tight would be ok. as long as it didnt get pushed into the pump. it wont travel that far back so i should be good. thx scott


merlinmech
Member
posted April 07, 2002 07:06 PM
Flatlander: Just drill a 7/32 hole in the reverse piston and one in the low gear pressure line. Works just like you have a converter in it after a couple of runs.


powerglides
Member
posted April 08, 2002 06:29 AM
I've been running them that way for 5 years.


WesternAuto17
Member
posted April 11, 2002 08:44 AM
hesser - how can you have the right amount of play (3/16 to 1/8) if the coupler won't move? I'm having the exact same problem with the exact same parts.


hesseracing
Member
posted April 12, 2002 12:55 PM
western, we put the tranny in and out at least 30 times. the shaft wont move to check the clearance. what i did was measured the coupler from the back to the lip inside it. it was 5/16". if i put the ring on the chevy grove (the second from the tranny) i was not going to have at least 1/8" clearance. i put it on the ford slot and with the shaft all the way into the tranny the ring is right at the edge of the coupler which means that i have approx 5/16" clearance. my view is a little more is better than less. i wont ram it into the pump but it doesnt have enough clearance to come to forward and shear the teeth of of the tranny. my only fear is the tightness of the shaft in the coupler. some have told me that the tranny is not squared with the motor. its bolted tight and ive never had a problem with this motor/tranny combo before. i expect it to loosen after the first time i drive the car around the yard. my buddy doesnt even have a ring in the shaft to make his work. i guess ill find out if im right. hope this helps you scott


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