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Author Topic:   wiring ??
posted January 22, 2002 03:47 AM
Okay....another "dumb newbie" question here......I'm building a G body "hobby", and i'm a little fuzzy on wiring it. I know there is an Ignition switch, and a starter button. But, could somebody please tell me in "newbie talk",what do these WIRE to?........thanks guys!, your so helpfull


posted January 22, 2002 10:36 AM
The starter and the ignition are two seperate circuts.You can crank the engine by pushing the starter button,but it will not start untill you turn on the ignition switch.(power to the distributor switch).... The reason race cars are wired this way is so you can crank the engine and build up oil pressure before the engine actually starts.This is believed to save wear on your bearings and extend engine life.It also helps your engine to start should you choose to run a locked distributor..... To wire your car,I'm assuming you will be using a master cut-off switch, run your positive battery cable from the battery to the master cut-off switch,and from the switch to the starter.(I use welding cable and lugs as battery cable) For your ignition circut,run a wire from cut-off switch to your ignition switch,then from ignition switch to distributor.(hooks up to terminal marked "batt") For your starter circut,run a wire from cut-off switch to your starter button and from there to the starter selinoid. For the rest,gauges,lights, sending units,microwave ovens,etc.,just pick up power from cut-off switch and run the same way. Now for your ground,some guys just run a short cable from battery to the roll cage or frame. I reccomend running a cable from the battery to engine block.Then from the engine block mounting point,run a ground strap to the back of both heads.I also run the short cable from the battery to the roll cage or frame.This means that I have two cables attached to the negative terminal at the battery.I also use brass battery terminal ends.They work great and do not corrode.(availlible at Wal-Mart) Hope this helps.....

posted January 23, 2002 12:08 AM
Thanks!!!!......great help!

posted February 02, 2002 12:21 AM
Wow, that can't be said much better!

posted February 04, 2002 03:30 PM
Snowman said it all great.
As he suggested use the master cut of switch. I didnt my first year and I burned up a $140 starter when the solinoid stuck. The $20 switch would have allowed me to turn off the juice. Also run a direct ground to your distributor. this helps from burning out modules on HEI systems. And dont spare the wire ties. keep the wires away from the exhaust. Another thing I add to my cars is a light under the dash. there is nothing worse than droping a glove on line. when you race at night its to dark to see to even get in the car. Put the lamp on a momentary on switch so it cannt be left on. for the light use an old license plate marker lamp or a turn signel lamp with-out the lense on it.

posted February 04, 2002 10:06 PM
Thank you uforacing51 and widebody. One thing I would like to add,when you buy a fuel cell,they always instruct you to ground the cap assembly and can to the chassis. Yet, alot of racers fail to do so. It's such a simple and easy deal,why not have the extra safety margin it provides?

posted February 05, 2002 12:39 PM
Run a ground wire to the base of the distributor. The base has a gasket(insulator)between the dist and intake (SBC). Picture an old dist painted 5 different colors,(thick paint) and a hold down to match. the only other way for your distributor to ground is through the gear which hopefully has oil on it. bad ground!! Anyways its good insurance, and cheap..

I usually just drill through the module hold down taped hole, the one with the ground lead to it from the internal wiring of the dist. The small bolts are like a 6-32 or 8-32 ***** ???. drill through, the tapped hole, get a longer ***** and a nut for the bottom side of the dist base and this is where your external ground lead can attach. attach it to a good ground. and for extra piece of mind use a nylock nut on it.
You cant win if your not there at the end!!

The fuel cap ground is a good idea in that it also hold your cap to the cell so you dont loose it..

posted February 08, 2002 08:13 AM
snowman i either misunderstood ya or you dont run a separate solenoid on the firewall. i run pos cable to main kill swith. then from there to a ford solenoid mounted on firewall. then from there to starter. i bypass the starter solenoid by using a piece of brass to connect the posts. then i run a wire to the alternator off of the same post on the wall solenoid that goes to the batt. i ground the batt with a short cable to the cage. then run a ground also between the head and the frame. this i how i was taught to run my system and it works great. but i guess a some tracks they might not allow this done due to rules.

posted February 08, 2002 10:07 AM
Does anyone know where to get a schematic, or of any books that will help first time wiring?

posted February 09, 2002 03:52 AM
Your local library should have a number of books on the subject. Ours even has Chilton manuals.

posted February 10, 2002 05:31 PM
Hesseracing, You bring up a good point with the Ford selinoid. I did not include it because it is not necessary and to keep the post as simple as possible. I agree that most cars are wired to use one.

The disadvantages of using one are, it's one more thing to go wrong and two more cable conections to make.The cable conections are difficult to make with out the proper tool and could easily come loose if not properly crimped.

The advantages of using the selinoid are, you remove one wire from the starter and the cable that is hooked up to the starter is only energized while cranking the engine. These two reasons are very good reasons if one considers the hostile enviroment where these wires live. Leaking exaust manifold gaskets can melt insulation pretty quick,and wires not properly routed and protected can short out easily. All things considered,the Ford selinod is a pretty good deal.

Either method will work fine provided that the wires are protected.(such as grommets in the firewall and routed in such a manner to prevent chaffing) Neither method will work for long if the wires are not protected.

Widebody has brought up some good ideas on distributor grounding and I also like the idea of a light.I haven't used either in the past,but I shall use both in the future.Thanks Widebody.

One more thing on grounding,I run a wire from the ground post to a point under the dash,and tie all the grounds(gauges,tach,lights,etc) to this ground. In short,I don't rely on the chassis to anything. All this grounding may sound redundant,and it is,But better to be safe than sorry.

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