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Author Topic:   Bump Steer
JML
Member
posted January 10, 2002 10:23 PM
I HAVE A GM METRIC CHASSIS STREET STOCK,WITH IMPALA SPINDLES.I HAVE READ THAT 86 STYLE CAMARO CENTERLINK AND TIE ROD LINKAGE HELP ELIMINATE SOME BUMP STEER.IS THIS TRUE? DOES IT MATTER THAT THE CAMARO CENTER LINK IS 1" LONGER THAN THE METRIC ONE? I NOTICED THAT THE PITTMAN ARM AND IDLER ARM WONT BE SQUARED LIKE THIS.


awkwardjeff
Member
posted January 11, 2002 02:03 AM
JML, Cut the IROC draglink between the idler arm and the right side inner tie-rod hole. Cut out a chunk 1 1/4 inch long and grind it out so you get a GOOD weld...Put both pieces back on the car and tack weld together, remove from car, and PACK THE END IN ICE TO KEEP FROM MELTING OUT THE BUSHING OF THE END OF THE DRAGLINK.

You will need to cut 1 inch out of each tie-rod to get the toe-in set. If you don't due this the tie-rods will bottom out against each other in the sleeve. I only cut the right hand thread myself.

The reason for doing all this is because the IROC draglink will make your tie-rods shorter so they will be much closer in length to the lower A-frames.......and this is also why you need to shorten the tie-rod before assembly.......there won't be enough adjustment left without cutting one end off. ........the tie-rods won't have enough room in the adjustment sleeve to get as short as they will need to be to set the toe-in...............

This work will keep the ackerman in the car........the measurement from inside tie-rods to the pivot points will be almost exactly the same side for side.......not like the way they are now......a stock draglink is much longer from the right side inner to the idler, as compared to the left side inner to the pitman arm.....but cutting and welding you will make a symetrical drag link.........


SSSSHHHHHHH, Don't tell anyone else, and grind that weld done, bush on a little acid, and paint the whole draglink black when finished.............


this is between you and me.......RIGHT?????



DEEDDUDE
Member
posted January 11, 2002 05:59 AM
Jeff, I asked for some help a while back and you gave me a lot of good ideas. Thanks. I did basically what you told JML. I wrapped the drag links ends with wet rags wire tied to them and kept a bucket of water handy. works great. I also built a jig to hold everything square while welding. My question is what acid do you use and where to get it. Thanks


istock59
Member
posted January 16, 2002 03:18 PM
Man, good stuff there Jeff. But I don't think I can get away with it in an IMCA stockcar. Rules specifically say stock parts....

I am going to look into adjusting the bumpsteer as much as I can this year tho. Especially on the RF. Any tips?



awkwardjeff
Member
posted January 17, 2002 08:36 PM
istock59, You can run this STOCK IROC draglink........you can cut and reweld like I stated or you can leave it long and it will help bump steer a bunch.......but the ackerman becomes a problem.......I believe that could be overcome easier then the bumpsteer.........the reason a metric car has sooooooo much bumpsteer is the fact the tie-rods are soooooo long in comparison to the lower A-frames..............

You can get them on the same plane and still have a bunch of bump steer because of the lengths........you can make the lower A-frame longer, but this only serves to move the lower ball joint out at the same time....thus the spindle move withit all.....creating the need for even longer tie-rods.........


YOU NEED TO SHORTEN THE TIE RODS IN SOME WAY TO GET THE BUMPSTEER CORRECT.

that is all the advice I can give for now...

Jeff



istock59
Member
posted January 18, 2002 08:19 AM
Jeff, the more I think about your cut/rewelded centerlink, the more I like it. If it's done properly, I think it'd be VERY hard to catch too. The motor hides it pretty good.

You had any problems with the durablity of it?

Also, you say IROC, but will any mid-80's Camaro part work?

Thanks!

awkwardjeff
Member
posted January 18, 2002 04:13 PM
You can get away with it......NO problem, keep stock stuff in the trailer for just in case.......you could have it all set to change over so you don't even need to adjust the toe-in . Just set the whole front end with the stock parts and then remove from spindles, idler, and pitman arm......keep as one unit set to bolt on........

Camaro stuff is the same.......EXCEPT....some are small and some are big.........where the tie-rods fit....some need to be reamed to fit the other stuff on the car.........if you stay with IROC.......everything interchanges...tie-rods and pitman/idler.....

do a nice job welding and grinding.....then use acid to finish the look...........

If you send me a email or private message I will tell you more........and some things do cost money.......I would email you but you don't have a email address available....

There is more that can be done in the gray area of the rules on front end stuff

[This message has been edited by awkwardjeff (edited January 18, 2002).]

istock59
Member
posted January 18, 2002 08:35 PM
Jeff, just dropped you an email regarding from my yahoo acct.

Thanks.

JML
Member
posted January 18, 2002 09:36 PM
JEFF, IM LOOKING AT THE STOCK METRIC CENTER LINK AND THE CAMARO IROC ONE.YOU SAID TO CUT THE END NEAR THE IDLER ARM TO MAKE IT THE SAME LENGTH. IF YOU LINE UP THE PITTMAN ARM SIDE STUDS THE DRIVER SIDE TIE ROD HOLE SEEMS LIKE IT IS IN THE SAME SPOT AS THE METRIC ONE AND THE PASSANGER SIDE TIE ROD HOLE IS 2" OUT MORE THAN THE METRIC ONE.IT SEEMS LIKE THE ONLY THING THAT WILL HAPPEN ON THE DRIVER SIDE IS THE TIE ROD WILL BE LOWER.IS THIS CORRECT OR AM I MISSING SOMETHING? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.


xRaCeR
Member
posted January 18, 2002 09:59 PM
This one also


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