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Author Topic:   Well maybe once more time!!!
ryan
Member
posted August 06, 2002 01:50 AM
After this weekend I might have changed my mind(for now)ran the car with the cam going down. I figured what the heck race it once more and park it but I got 3rd in the heat 2nd in the B and 13th in the A. The way this year has been going that was a great night. lol. Anyways I am going to grab a block I got laying around re-ring it and throw a new cam in it. I have had a ton of trouble with solid cams so I had a thought to use a circle track hyd cam or should I stick with solid. Please pretend I am a newbie and explain how I should do everything and what I should check parts,oil,break in, clearances etc etc. On my bad cams Could my cam be walking back and forth not letting my lifters rotate properly. Should I get cam buttons. A knowledgeable guy I race with thought it might be an oiling problem. Could one of the oil passages be blocked. Please help

[This message has been edited by ryan (edited August 06, 2002).]

ryan
Member
posted August 06, 2002 01:53 AM
p.s. I meant to write for the subject
maybe one more time oops!


dirtbuster
Member
posted August 06, 2002 09:52 AM
as for the cam button that is cheap insurance to keep the cam from walking forward. What are you using for a timing chain. The chain helps to hold the cam back unless it is wore out then the cam could move forward and that could cause problems. When you put it in make sure you check the end play with it and get it set so that you can put the timing chain cover on and not bottom out on the button before you can tighten the screws down.

When you put it together check over everything and then recheck everything. Check to make sure your lifter bores are clean and burr free. Make sure the block is clean and all oil passages are clean and clear. When you put the cam in make sure you get it lubed up well.

What are you using for cam lube on the lobes? ARe you using a liquid or a paste?

Make sure you put in new lifters on the cam. Either check yourself or have a shop check your valvesprings pressure and how much lift they can handle safely. When you put the rocker arms on make sure the pushrods are not binding anywhere in the head. Make sure the rocker arms are not bottoming out in the slot. Set your valve lash according to the cam manufacturers card.

When you fire it up. Try not to crank for ling periods of time. If you do it will wipe all the lube off the lobes then there is nothing to protect it. Use a good quality oil like a Kendall or Castrol 30wt or maybe 20W50. Prime the oil pump with a tool and drill before you start it so that all the oil passages are full and wont take time to build pressure when the motor fires. Another thing you can do to make sure all the lifters are oiling properly is to pull the valve covers and watch as you prime the motor and see if you can see oil coming out of all the pushrod holes. You may have to turn the motor over a little at a time to get everything lined up but yo should see oil coming outof every pushrod if they all are working correctly. If you want add a bottle of GM EOS to your oil. This is really good for helping break in everything properly. When it fires keep the rpms between 2000-3000 for at least 20-25 minutes. VAry the speeds a little during that time, dont just set it and run it a one constant speed. If you want to check on your cam during breakin leave the valve covers loose and pull them off after it fires and look to see if your pushrods are rotating this means the lifters are rotating as well. If you have problems and have to shut it down during the first 20-30 minutes make sure when you refire it you get rpms back up and finish breaking it in.

Anything else?

[This message has been edited by dirtbuster (edited August 06, 2002).]

ryan
Member
posted August 06, 2002 11:46 AM
Quality Timing Chain
I use the gray paste for the cam
Where can I find that GM EOS I assume its like an STP type deal
Thanks for all your help dirt on this post and the others!


dirtbuster
Member
posted August 06, 2002 01:34 PM
I get my EOS at my machine shop but I am sure almost all Chevy or GM dealers would have it. It is Engine Oil Supplement kind of like stp but it is made to help everything break in right.

LAst cam I picked up was a Comp CAm and the shop gave me a packet of ARP assembly lube and told me to put it on the cam lobes only and use the red liquid that comp sends on the face of the lifter. The red stuff is ok but it seems to run off and as hot as it is now i wanted to make sure and keep some on the cam that is why they gave me the ARP stuff. Is the gray paste you are using a moly based lube? If not that could be the problem.

Make sure you check and have proper side clearance on your rods. The oil that works its way out between adjacent rods gets slung onto the cam and that is where it gets most of its lubrication from. If your side clearance is too tight you may not be getting enough oil onto the cam to protect it.

What do you idle your motor at? They also told me that when running high spring pressures and an aggresive cam not to let them idle too slow for too long because it wont sling as much oil onto the cam and wear it out that way.

Another thing i thought of and it seems rare but my shop said they have had cams go bad by having too little spring pressure so that the springs cannot control the valve and it tears up the cam. This was on a low rpm motor though and I would think that you would have noticed valve float problems at higher prms though if this were the case but it is something to think about.. Make sure your spring pressures are near those reccomended by the cam manufacturer.

[This message has been edited by dirtbuster (edited August 06, 2002).]

dirtracer14
Member
posted August 06, 2002 06:46 PM
If you have it in the budget look into the Direct lube lifters, after the problems i had they worked for me. they are about $90 a set from competition products.


ryan
Member
posted August 16, 2002 01:04 PM
I have been a victim of cam walk at least on this latest cam. Possibly on the other two also. One of the bolt heads on the cam had a little wear mark and the cover had a shiny spot where the bolt hit it. I think I may have solved my cam issues. Thanks to all that helped.


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