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Author Topic:   hole in block for dipstick?
dode
Member
posted April 18, 2002 09:10 AM
What the heck should I do to plug this thing up? Leaving it open would be a very bad thing. Thanks.

John

Flatlander
Member
posted April 18, 2002 12:02 PM
John, an 1/8" pipe tap fits right in the hole. Just tap threads into it and put a flush type 1/8" pipe plug in it. I do this with all my engines, works great.


dode
Member
posted April 18, 2002 12:37 PM
Oh yeah, it get's changed on a regular basis. Is there something temp I can put in there for right now? I just realized it wasn't plugged until I poured 7 quarts of oil in. I really don't want to be tapping with clean oil in the motor. I am not ready to drain it yet. Thanks.

John

DodgeBoy76
Member
posted April 18, 2002 01:29 PM
We put in a bolt with some blue silicon around it, and it seems to work, havent had any dirt or water get in the oil yet.


Flatlander
Member
posted April 18, 2002 02:53 PM
I agree with the dipstick. We have always used one and never had any problems. But i know a lot of guys that plug theirs also.

If your pan does not have a check plug in it I would definetly recommend running the dipstick.

If you do have a check plug then I guess it is your decision whether you want to pull adipstick to check the oil or crawl underneath and pull the plug. Either way you need to be able to check it and keep it full.

dode
Member
posted April 19, 2002 08:59 AM
Hey, thanks for the ideas guys. I haven't found a dipstick yet that will fit it, so I have to go another route for now. It does have a check in the pan, so we have that. Plus, the oil gets changed quite often (how often should we really change it? Valvoline SAE 50 with a racing filter). Thanks.

John

dirtbuster
Member
posted April 19, 2002 10:18 AM
When we run conventional oil(Kendall 20w50) we would change the oil and filter every 2 nights.

When we run synthetic (Mobil 1 15W50) we will change the filter every 2 nights and go 4-6 nights on the oil. I know that may sound like we are stretching it on the oil but we have never had any problems and the bearings and everything else look like new when the motor comes apart over the winter. Plus the mobil1 keeps the insides cleaner.

I know it may sound expensive but if you add up the cost of our conventional schedule and synthetic schedule it is actually cheaper with the synthetic and you get better protection as a plus.

I know some guys go 6,7, 10 weeks on conventional oil and sometimes they make it but oil is cheap compared to a new engine so it doesn't hurt anything by changing it often.

[This message has been edited by dirtbuster (edited April 19, 2002).]

dirttracker98
Member
posted April 19, 2002 11:52 AM
Take a hammer and drive a wood peg in it,you can probably get one off a sapling out behind the shop,or the neighbors back yard,that way you won't be out no cash money,unless you whack your thumb or finger a holdin' it!!!"Cheap at twice the price"


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